<![CDATA[V4 Dreams - Shop Blog]]>Fri, 17 Jan 2025 17:56:34 -0600Weebly<![CDATA[Carb Cleaning Tribulations]]>Wed, 15 Jan 2025 21:09:12 GMThttps://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/carb-cleaning-tribulationsPictureCarb parts fresh from a 'sonic bath
I've recently been working to clear my backlog of carburetors in need of rebuilding, consisting of five sets of Gen-3 carbs. It's always a bit like unwrapping a gift when I begin disassembly of a dirty set, never knowing what I might find lying in wait. Clogged jets and petrified gaskets are expected, but there's also broken bits, incorrect parts and creative assembly from past attempts by well-meaning DIYers. Here's a sampling of typical chores

(Below) These carbs' vacuum diaphragms are afflicted with some sort of white and green stuff, possibly mold or mildew? These slide assemblies are NLA so I treat them with a delicate touch. Here I'm using Zep degreaser, a mild cleaner, massaging the rubber diaphragm with finger pressure and a soft toothbrush around the edges. In extreme cases the round rubber edge can be coated with stubborn crusty corrosion from a rusted diaphragm cap — a challenge to remove without damaging the diaphragm. I use a warm soapy bath and a fingernail to gently scrape the crust off as best I can. If the rubber seems particularly dry I will rub on a thin application of red rubber grease to rejuvenate and preserve the rubber.​ I also clean the plastic slide by scrubbing with a non-scuff kitchen pad followed by a hot water rinse and air dry.

(Below) The main jet needles are often stained with sticky brown varnished gasoline. This I remove with a scrub pad and degreaser or solvent. Two of these four float hinge pins were very difficult to remove due to varnished gas. Again, a scuff pad used with something to cut the varnish will allow the floats to pivot freely. I like to roll these items on a flat surface to check for straightness.
(Below) I'm no longer able to source individual float valves for the Gen-3 carburetors, so I rely on Keyster rebuild kits. These are quality Japanese-made parts. Next, this particular carb set had a broken enriching (choke) valve — these are soft brass and don't like to be forced. I learned this long ago when trying to remove a stuck valve by pulling with pliers. It didn't take much force to pop that little head right off, like the one shown here. This one had a bent tip which expectedly broke when straightened. Note that there's two distinct parts here…one has a wider gap to allow two pieces of linkage on carbs number 2 & 3 (red arrows). I clean these shafts with a scrub pad and cleaner/lube, like WD40 or similar. Shown next is an air cut valve assembly. These are often reusable, like this one, if treated gently. I carefully clean the rubber diaphragm and rub a film of red rubber grease to preserve it. These assemblies should be removed for a thorough carb cleaning.
(Below) Here's two shots of the various parts cleaned and ready for assembly. The pink arrow shows how I mark each carbs' float with permanent marker dots. This way they maintain what float level adjustment they had previously, saving time setting the float heights after installing. I also keep the slide assemblies with their original carbs — not necessary, but my thinking is that they're well mated to their carb, so may as well keep them paired. 
And here's a few more examples of what may be lurking in your carb project.
]]>
<![CDATA[Winter's Mid-point]]>Wed, 15 Jan 2025 15:48:57 GMThttps://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/winters-mid-pointThe good news; my winter off-season is half over! The bad news; my winter off-season is only half over. In any event, I'm making the best of it — Project 41 is in the assembly stage and coming together nicely. I've finally found time to get several sets of Gen-3 carburetors rebuilt, just waiting for the opportunity to get them tuned. For that I'll utilize my '93 VFR, but the lift is occupied with #41 for the time being. Parts orders and inquires are increasing as the season turns the corner, a sure sign that warmer times are coming.

As a mid-winter pick-me-up I'll share a 5-minute video from YouTube's V4 Rider, this time on a Gen-8 VFR800 riding the Pampilhosa da Serra mountains in central Portugal. Enjoy.
]]>
<![CDATA[NC35 For Sale In Florida]]>Fri, 10 Jan 2025 15:54:00 GMThttps://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/nc35-for-sale-in-floridaPictureClick on image for the eBay link
What: 1997 RVF400 (NC35)
Why: Beautiful, desirable, rare
Where: Orlando, Florida
Price: Auction; BIN $11,500

Often referred to as a smaller sibling to the RC45 (previous post), this little screamer was only available in the Japanese market. This final iteration of the 400cc V4 was a comprehensive upgrade over the earlier VFR400. Production actually ended in 1996 but left-overs were available for a few more years, explaining this 1997 example.

And this one enjoys a sampling of modifications, including Tyga bodywork, Ducati rear wheel, several carbon fiber bits and more. Whether these changes make the bike more or less desirable is up to the buyer to decide, but the buy-it-now price of $11,500 is in line with more original examples. Note that there's no mention of the missing turn signals and mirrors.

If you're the appropriate size and have the required flexibility, then the RVF400 is reportedly among the finest handling and fastest in this class. According to MCN, "Honda at their very best."

]]>
<![CDATA[RC45 For Sale In California]]>Mon, 06 Jan 2025 16:00:41 GMThttps://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/rc45-for-sale-in-californiaPictureClick on image for the Craigslist link
What: 1994 RVF750R (RC45)
Why: Rare, low miles, original owner
Where: Torrence, California (LA)
Price: $69,000

If you're still reading beyond the $69K price, you must know what's on offer here. Produced by Honda's HRC division for World Superbike competition, 200 road-going homologation RC45 examples were built, with only 50 going to the U.S. This model was an upgrade replacement for the iconic RC30, notable changes including fuel injection and shortened stroke. The U.S. model was rated at only 101 HP, the Euro model at 118, but the full-on race bikes could go to 190 HP. The bike distinguished itself with many important titles, including:
1995 AMA Superbike Championship
1996 Daytona 200
1997 WSB Championship
1998 AMA Superbike Championship
FIM Endurance World Championship SIX times!

This particular example, #43, is offered as an original-owner with only 3050 miles showing, and "total stock, untouched." Arguably the worst ad I've ever come across for such an exclusive and expensive motorcycle, it includes six bad photos and only 18 words in the description. I guess our seller assumes the bike will sell itself, and that's probably true. The most recent comparable I found is a 903-mile example sold on BaT 15 months ago for $66,500 (+buyer fee), so the asking price is in the ballpark. These bikes are few and far between, so here's your chance to own a piece of superbike history.

]]>
<![CDATA[Ebay Bargain Alert]]>Sun, 05 Jan 2025 17:10:15 GMThttps://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/ebay-bargain-alertPictureClick on image for the eBay link
I'm always on the lookout for parts bargains. They're not as common as they once were, but a sharp eye can still spot one now and then.

Here's a great example. This is a New Old Stock Gen-2 rear Disc Pad Pin Kit from EBC. I've never seen one of these but what a bargain! This kit contains a collection of hardware you may want or need for your caliper rebuild, not commonly found in a caliper seal kit, for example.

From left to right in the photo, we have the no-longer-available "hanger" and its attaching bolt which secures the pad pins, followed by the two pad pins, and finally the pad spring. The pins and spring are still available from Honda, but if you were able to purchase all of this separately it would total about $70.

Our seller has this kit listed for only $10 including shipping! And, within one hour of my adding the listing to my eBay Watchlist, I was sent an offer for $9.50 — that's a little discount trick I've often used over the years to save a little on the many parts I've had to buy.

I don't have a need for these parts, but if you're doing a complete caliper rebuild, maybe you do. The remaining parts required would typically be piston seals (K&S 19-1005) and the lower slider "sleeve," Honda part # 45111-MA3-006.

]]>
<![CDATA[Please Don't Do This To Your Engine]]>Sat, 04 Jan 2025 15:21:43 GMThttps://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/please-dont-do-this-to-your-engine5279062From The Archives: November 2022
The space vehicle we call Earth has tilted once again, reducing Mother Sun's effective calefaction to those of us on the top half of the globe…in other words, winter us upon us, and here in America's snow belt, that translates into some five months of motorbike hibernation.

Machines don't respond well to disuse, but there's at least one common storage misconception that we need to heed, and that's the fallacy that running an engine during storage is somehow "good" for the machine. It is not, and the photo above is graphic proof. What we're looking at is an amazing window into the innards of a 1986 VFR750F (Project 38), thanks to Sebspeed's modified clutch cover. What we see is a huge accumulation of moisture created when a cold engine has been run for the first few minutes after startup. What we don't see is the production of acids created by the incomplete combustion process, due to the cold engine's need for a rich fuel setting and those gasses slipping past the not-yet-expanded cylinders and rings. Note that by "cold" I mean any ambient temperature — not just the cold months. This photo was taken on a warm summer day.

This situation took 20 minutes of running in order to heat the engine's interior to the point where the excess moisture finally evaporated and the window cleared. When a well-meaning owner starts his engine every few weeks and idles it for several minutes this is what he or she is producing. The inside surfaces of the crankcase are awash in this water and acid soup, and when it's shut down the corrosion of aluminum and steel parts begins — bearings, gears, camshafts, etc. A stored engine does not need this exercise, but if you insist on making yourself feel better by running your stored engine, then it must be taken on the road for at least 20 minutes of normal riding to effectively dissipate this stuff. If not, you're doing more harm than good.

And, speaking of acids, remember that used motor oil holds suspended combustion acids. These too will spend the winter months eating away at your engine's internal bits. That's why engine oil should be changed at the END of the riding season, NOT the beginning.

Be considerate of our machine's needs; when the warmth returns we will be rewarded with a willing and able riding companion.
]]>
<![CDATA[BT46 Tire Review]]>Fri, 03 Jan 2025 16:58:14 GMThttps://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/bt46-tire-reviewIn the latest issue of Rider magazine, I came upon this on-road review of the Bridgestone Battlax BT46. These tires would be spec'd for the Gen-1 and Gen-2 VF/VFR models, as they're bias-ply construction — later models wore radial tires. There's very few tire choices out there for the 16" fronts/18" rears in the correct OEM sizes. I've sampled them on the Gen-2 but have always returned to Bridgestones, first the BT45, then superseded by the current BT46. There's more selection if you want to stray from original sizes but I've always found that the engineers got it right to begin with.

Our reviewer tested these on a newer Royal Enfield 650 and came away very impressed, with comments like, "reassuring grip," "predictable behavior, "clear feedback," and "precise handling and confidence in every corner." I agree; these tires are grippy, versatile and priced right. They even sport current tread design, giving a touch of modernity to our old bikes.

Also shown below are current prices from Rocky Mt. ATV/MC (Gen-2 VFR).

]]>
<![CDATA[Happy New Year!]]>Wed, 01 Jan 2025 06:00:00 GMThttps://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/happy-new-year7811504Wishing everyone in the V4 universe a happy, healthy and prosperous new year. Stay safe out there.
As a handy new year's bonus, posted below is a PDF file of an index to the major technical posts on this web page since the inception of V4 Dreams nearly ten years ago (!). It's provided by reader Michael S. through his thoughtful and generous effort. My web hosting platform doesn't provide for a search feature for the the "Archives," so I'm very grateful to Michael for indexing some 115 months of posts.
Scroll through the index on this page or download by moving your cursor near the bottom and clicking the download button.
]]>
<![CDATA[Fuel Pump Maintenance]]>Thu, 26 Dec 2024 15:49:00 GMThttps://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/fuel-pump-maintenanceIt's time to ready the original fuel pump for installation on Project 41. The pump was working fine when removed so I'm going to give it a little love before installing. After a general cleaning, I remove the single screw holding the plastic cover and, using a old-school points file, I gently file flat the points set, just like we did to distributor points back in the day. This removes any unevenness or corrosion, giving a fresh surface for the electrical contacts. Then a general spray with electronic contact cleaner, and the cover can be reinstalled.

Honda still supplies the rubber "insulator" so I coerce that into place — warming it with hot water helps. That tang on the metal mounting bracket is there to hold the 3-wire stator connector, which I'm eliminating in favor of solid solder joints. That tang will now be in the path of the wires, so I bend it out of the way — it can be bent back in the future if desired. Finally, I ensure the wires' connector blades are clean, and this pump is ready to be bolted in place. 
Historical note: Back in the time of distributor points, if a points file wasn't available, we would just slide a matchbook cover between the points, which would effectively remove surface corrosion until it was time to replace the points set, part of a traditional "tuneup." The tuneup consisted of replacing the points (and setting the "gap"), plus the condenser, spark plugs and "setting the dwell" which was done with a hand-held meter measuring the time, in degrees, that the points remain closed to produce the required magnetic field for the coils to blast the spark plugs. The kicker here is that a tuneup was best done about every 10,000 miles, or once per year, unheard of these days.

As I pondered this, it occurred to me that younger generations might not be very familiar with the whole "matchbook" thing. But back when cigarette smoking was taken for granted, nearly everyone had a book of matches handy, especially us low-life motorheads who spent our days tinkering with muscle cars. And that's why we used the common matchbook to clean the points. An adjunct to the matchbook, of course, was the less-common matchbox, which the Matchbox toy cars were a reference to, and when emptied, were used to store tiny childhood treasures. "Hey pal, got a light?"
]]>
<![CDATA[Merry Christmas]]>Wed, 25 Dec 2024 06:00:00 GMThttps://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/merry-christmas1663963
Picture
Painting By Tom Newsom
]]>