What: 1995 RVF400 NC35
Why: Rare but rideable
Where: Santa Ana, California
Auction ends May 10th

This JDM jewel was a redesign of the Honda VFR400 (NC30), producing nearly 60 HP at 13,000 RPM. The NC35 was offered from 1994-96 and is still considered one of the finest 400-class motorbikes.

​This example shows 15,340 miles and features the popular Tyga full exhaust system and Tyga rearsets, otherwise mostly stock with a few cosmetic blemishes and a clear Nevada title. Enjoy the running video included in the listing.

My 1993 VFR750, aka Project 39, was on the lift this past week to complete some small projects. I'd also been using the bike for tuning rebuilt carb sets for the past two months.

First up was the switch to a different set of carbs. I decided to custom jet a set I rebuilt over the winter in order to see if they would compliment my intake and exhaust setup; a K&N performance filter paired with a Delkevic slip-on. I should make clear that this combination does not require carb jetting changes on the VFR, rather I'm just looking to see if mild jetting increases would be noticeable one way or the other. The only significant change was to use #124 main jets from a (DynoJet?) jet kit, which were a bit larger than the original Keihin #130 (yeah, confusing). As best I can determine, I would put the new jets as equivalent to a Keihin #135. In addition, the slides' bleed holes were drilled larger, per jet kit practice. Slide needles are original (with one shim added) as are the #40 pilot jets. K&L float valve assemblies and new air cut valves were installed and the pilot screws set at 2 3/4 turns out.

On the lift, the carbs sync'd perfectly and throttle response seemed spot on, but the proof would come with a test ride, sampling throttle response and pulling power throughout the range. That happened early this week...and the result? The new carbs worked great. A smooth, strong 4th-gear pull from 2000 RPM to redline, no bogging or flat spots, quick and precise throttle response whether at parking lot speeds or rolling on exiting a corner. No further adjustments required. Are they better than the stock-jetted carbs? Without the ability to do a back-to-back comparison, my butt dyno isn't conclusive, but the "new" carbs seem to pull revs quicker than the originals. In any event, I'm pleased, so they've found their forever home on my VFR.

(Below) Next I addressed a wiring issue with the voltage monitor, sourced from Roadster Cycle (.com). This is a simple $30 LED dash light that changes color to warn of battery voltage drop. I first ran one on my ST1100 after experiencing charging issues on that bike, and having that reassuring green light glowing when hundreds of miles from home got me hooked on voltage monitors. When I initially installed it, I spliced into a convenient keyed 12v wire under the headlight fairing. As it turns out, this little guy is so sensitive that it wouldn't go full green unless wired directly to the battery (or very close). This, despite the fact that my charging system is fitted with Roadster Cycle's best, the "Super Mosfet Kit" which includes heavy duty wiring and a 30-amp circuit breaker charging at 14+ volts.

I tried, but it's stubborn, only going full green when near the battery. The issue with this wiring is that it's no longer keyed to the ignition, so it glows even with the ignition off. Jack from Roadster Cycle suggests that some guys like this as it appears to be an anti-theft light…and he's right. As as experiment, I let the bike sit for two weeks with the little light aglow, and measured only a .01 voltage drop in that time, so I guess it's not a factor, especially if you make use of a battery tender, which I do. However, just in case I ever wanted to eliminate that draw, I wired in a bullet connector under the seat. I suppose an inline on-off switch would have been more elegant, but also bulkier. You can see in the photo my wiring connection is at the circuit breaker…under the red cover. Where previously I had a sickly amber/green-ish light I now have a warm green glow. And yes, it does look like a bike alarm when unattended.

(Below) My next project was one I'd been putting off for some time. After suffering a garage tip-over 18 months ago (don't ask), I spent several months searching for a replacement right-side rider's footpeg bracket, as mine got a slight bend which resulted in the footpeg drooping. After buying and returning a similarly bent item, I finally found a straight bracket on eBay England. I then spent a full day grinding, sanding, more sanding and clear-coating the new bracket. With it up to the standard of the rest of the bike, I swapped the footpeg, brake master, brake light switch, heat shield and brake pedal onto the new bracket and was rewarded with a good-looking, straight assembly. A simple tip-over can involve a lot of money and effort to make right — this was just one of the required repairs.

Finally, with the fairing out of the way, I decided now would be a good time to flush the cooling system and install a new thermostat. The temperature gauge on my '93 seems to sit low in the range, so rather than wonder about the thermostat not functioning correctly, I elected to replace it; part #19300-ML7-003 ($56, ouch!) along with a fresh fill with Honda HP Coolant. I happened to have a NOS thermostat on hand, which I'd paid "only" $32 for some years ago.

As it turns out, the thermostat isn't accessible with the carburetors in place, so…seat off, seat cowl off, fuel tank off, carbs off, replace thermostat, reinstall all of the above. Whew. A test run and system burp on the lift, and call this "little" task done.

With all these projects successfully completed, I coerced all the various fairings back in place, and declared Project 39 ready for the season.

What: 1994 VFR750
Why: Excellent rider or project basis
Where: "North of Boston"
Price: $750 (!)
LINK: https://vfrworld.com/threads/4th-gen-vfr750f.62355/#post-658741

Here's a rare chance to inexpensively enter the classic bike scene on a V4 Honda or maybe add a daily rider to your stable. This final generation of the carbureted VFRs offers style, comfort and a GT-level riding experience. This particular example has the mechanical heavy lifting completed, including fuel system, brakes and updated charging system. The passenger seat cowl is included along with a Yosh slip-on — and one more unique accessory. Check out the electric Razor pocket rocket in the second photo!

The seller is the second owner, the title has no issues, and even the tool kit and manuals are still with the bike — these are all things that you don't find with bargain-priced motorcycles. From the seller:
"She's not a showpiece or garage queen, she was taken on full adventures. The price reflects my gratitude for the HUGE amount of help I found on this forum. She needs to be taken out onto the highways, time to cut her loose."

Hurry, this won't last long.

What: 2002 VFR800
Why: Nice condition, low miles
Where: Lancaster, South Carolina
Price: $4995 OBO

​Looking sharp in its creased Italian Red bodywork, this first-year VTEC 800 shows only 15,745 miles. If that's its original paint, then this beauty has been pampered all its life, averaging only 685 miles per year. From the seller: “The bike is in excellent condition with brand new Sargent seat, Delkevic exhaust and battery. I have owned this bike for 8 years, always garage-kept and meticulous maintenance. Runs and sounds amazing. Perfect balance between a sport performance and touring comfort.”

This example lacks the optional ABS, which is a plus or minus, depending upon your preference. The seller is open to offers. Looks like a great find for VTEC fans. 

What: 2007 VFR800 Anniversary
Why: Low miles, farkled
Where: Atlanta, Georgia
Price: $5000 or best offer

​It's always nice to see a well-kept example of the '07 25th Anniversary Edition become available, and this example qualifies. Showing only 11,000 miles, well equipped, mature owner, and sporting white wheels to bring home that vintage vibe on a modern Interceptor. From the seller: "Very nice bike heli bar risers, Sargent seat, SBK exhaust, new chain and sprockets, LED lights, cruise control, new pilot roads front and rear. New brakes, power commander 5 that was dyno tuned. Old guy time for a new home."

The photos don't do this bike justice (please don't photograph a nice vehicle in front of trash cans) and don't show much detail, but I don't discern ABS brake hardware and can't really zoom in on the paint condition. So, I would want to ask for some more detailed photos and discuss any flaws, but otherwise this seems a very desirable package. The price is in line with the bike's condition, miles and extras, and the seller is open to offers. This will make a great sport tourer for the next caretaker.

Stators, regulators, Mosfet, AC/DC, alternators, rectifiers, volts, amps…if your head spins at the mention of charging systems and all the misinformation spewed on internet forums, you might just benefit from this concise but thorough article from motorcycle cruiser.com.

I stumbled upon this helpful little gem while researching something or other and thought…"I wish I'd had this information about thirty years ago." It would have given me a solid knowledge base to build upon, or at least shown me what these various bit of hardware were all about. So, if you could use a lesson on your bike's charging system, or just a refresher, click on the image above.

Well, this can't be good…. While prepping my 1993 VFR750 last fall for winter storage, I couldn't help but notice this unusual scene. A solidified, sticky, honey-colored goo had appeared on the lift handle, obviously originating from above, its source hidden under the tail fairing. Some investigation revealed that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) was bleeding this stuff. It wasn't actively leaking, so I decided it could wait till the VFR came up on the winter schedule.
(click on an image to enlarge)

Last week, I finally got the bike on the lift for a few winter tasks, including syncing five sets of carburetors, so time to see what's going on here. On the bench, I didn't get much insight beyond the obvious — the plastic case had been oozing this stuff but no more had accumulated over winter storage, so maybe this only occurred when running and warmed? Don't know, but I strongly suspect that there's no repair to be had here. Fortunately, my parts stash included an ICM salvaged a few years ago from a running 1990 model, and an online check showed the same part number used from 1990-93. A quick plug & play swap, test run, and voila, back in business. The moral of the story; keep your old parts.
P.S. The goo cleaned up with a plastic scraper and lacquer thinner.