I used to buy these Gen-2 carburetor insulators for about $40 per set of four. Those days are behind us, and they now list for $90 from Honda, or about $75 via the internet. These are OEM parts — I've never found aftermarket Gen-2 replacements.

But here's an eBay seller offering sets of four for only $60.42 (w/coupon code) including shipping.

I'm amazed that Honda still has these available (not true for the Gen-3) so we should grab them while we can.

With the new chain/sprocket set installed on Project 41, it was time to mount the sprocket cover and clutch slave. The decision was made to go aftermarket, and a beautiful Oberon slave cylinder was chosen, in titanium color.

This a a straightforward swap using the original mounting bolts.  Oberon furnishes a fresh gasket and I add a dab of grease to the clutch push rod. To finish off the clutch hydraulics, the rebuilt and repainted master was installed along with a stainless steel hose. The system bled out easily and looks great. I've never used an Oberon slave, so I'm anxious to get this one on the road.
​https://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/clutch-slave-cylinders

$300 includes shipping to continental U.S.
I found this beauty a few years back via one of the VFR forums, but just never came up with a Gen-4 to mount it on. I don't see that happening so it's time to pass it on to someone who can make use of it. This is an 18" long (muffler), genuine carbon fiber, with mid-pipe to mate to the 1994-97 VFR750 stock exhaust collector. Includes two connector springs. I've never mounted it but it appears to be a high-mount style, no additional mounting hardware included. It is a used item, but negligible wear evident. There's a light scuff on the rear side, not visible when mounted (see photo). The muffler weighs 2 lbs, 7 oz, the pipe 1 lb. A very nice piece.
Contact me: [email protected]
(some images appear to have a tan hue, but the carbon fiber is the darker shade pictured)
(click on an image to enlarge)

With the rear end components installed on Project 41, a 1987 VFR700 F2, it's time to fit fresh chain and sprockets. From the wide selections available at Motosport (.com), I chose JT brand steel sprockets in stock sizes (16/45 tooth), and a Bikemaster X-ring chain in nickel finish. I also opted for a rubber-damped front sprocket, just because.

​Here, I'm guiding the new chain around the front sprocket — it's not obvious, but the rear tire is clear of the lift so that the wheel rotates as I guide the chain through the frame and over the sprocket. Notice the notes on the frame and rear sprocket to remind me to torque the fasteners once the chain is installed and the tire lowered.

(Below) I'm using my trusty Motion Pro chain breaker/riveting kit. Chains are often packaged with the correct number of links, but this one came with about five extra links, which I marked and drove out the necessary rivet. Here, you can see the driven rivet and its o-rings. The new master link is greased and ready to install. This is a rivet-style master link, the "clip" style is not appropriate for high performance street bikes.
(click on an image to enlarge)

(Below) Next, I install the new master and o-rings from the backside. The front plate then needs to be "pressed" to achieve the correct width. Be sure to keep the rivets centered in the tool's holes, so as not to inadvertently mushroom the rivet (pink arrow). As I'm pressing the plates, I pause to check the width, matching it to its neighbors.

(Below) With the correct width, I reconfigure the tool to rivet, basically mushrooming the soft rivet to lock the plate in place (no photo). The rivet needs to be just right, too tight and the link won't want to pivot as the chain wraps around the sprockets, too loose and you risk the plate coming off — you can imagine the result. Here, I'm measuring the pressed rivet's diameter — the chain manufacturer will provide a recommended diameter range; 5.48mm is perfect. This is what your finished rivets should look like.

(Below) Finally, with the sprockets now held firmly in place by the chain, I'm able to torque the sprocket fasteners. At the rear, I've numbered the nuts to help me torque them in a crosswise pattern (you have to raise/rotate the wheel to access each nut, and you can easily loose track). After torquing the front bolt, I add a line of white paint. This allows a quick inspection through the sprocket cover to verify that the bolt hasn't loosened.
​Rear nuts: 58-72 ft-lb
​Front bolt: 38 ft-lb

After adjusting the chain tension, this job is finished. Next, I'll install the sprocket cover and a very special clutch slave cylinder.

Here's something new to me: This is an aftermarket Wolf brand underseat dual muffler slip-on to fit the 1998-01 VFR800.

I came across this offered for sale at VFRworld.com by member vfrcapn. It's a used item, said to have been restored by a previous owner. The seller states that he's had the system in use and fabricated an underseat tray, which is included. I would assume that this is a necessary modification but not really sure.

The entire package is offered for $775 plus shipping from California. Contact the seller via the attached photo link for more information on this rare and unusual item (membership required).

Mecum Las Vegas Motorcycle Auction, Jan 29-Feb 1, 2025

The annual bike selling extravaganza (2000 motorcycles in four days!) has concluded, kicking off the 2025 auction season and setting the stage for the coming year's classic bike market. A 1915 Cyclone has set a new world record motorcycle selling price of $1.320,000, $300,000 above the previous record! The world's first million-dollar motorbike, and it didn't even have Steve McQueen's name attached to it.

Paul d'Orleans, one of the broadcast commentators, noted the following: "...the landscape has changed: American four-cylinders are hot, 1970s/80s dirt bikes are hot, 1980s/90s sportbikes are hot, Kawasaki triples are hot, 1970s/80s Italian sportbikes are hot, but everything else is cold, cold, cold."

Looking over the results, I spied the following Honda V4 completed sales:
1993 VFR750R RC30 — $27,500 — Japan import, unknown miles
1990 VFR750R RC30 — $51,700 — Mitzel collection, 7000 miles
1990 VFR750R RC30 — $42,900 — Bruce Milner collection, 7700 miles
1987 VF700C Super Magna — $3300 — Mike Boyle collection, 4800 miles
2007 VFR800 Anniversary — $12,100 — Mitzel collection, 800 miles
1988 VFR400 NC24 — $6600 — David Silver collection, 28,000 miles
1996 VFR750 — $2750 — 5900 miles
1985 VF500C V30 Magna — $4950 — Mike Boyle collection, 2300 miles

Mecum's listings are notoriously short of online details, I guess it's more of a "ya gotta be there" thing.
For auction results (log-in required to see selling prices):
https://www.mecum.com/auctions/las-vegas-motorcycles-2025/lots/

The cooling system components on Project 41, an '87 VFR700 F2, were completely removed and disassembled for the bike's resurrection. The individual pieces were cleaned, "de-corroded," and polished or repainted as necessary. Fresh seals, a new OEM thermostat and silicone hoses with new clamps from AS3 were sourced and even a new GPI aftermarket radiator. Time to put it all back together. These steps will generally apply to all the V4s.
(click on an image to enlarge)

(Below) I begin in the cylinder valley by assembling the two fittings and their chrome connecting tube. These components were in tough shape and separating the chrome tube was an effort. After a lot of prep, the parts were ready for assembly with their new, lubricated seals. 

(Below) Next I move to the lower chrome pipe and short water pump hose. The pipe looked terrible upon removal but proved to be mostly surface corrosion which cleaned up with 0000 steel wool and chrome polish. After sliding the lower hose and upper o-ring seal onto the pipe, I insert the upper portion and slide the lower hose onto the water pump housing, lining up the support bolt hole. Then I install the support bolt so everything is correctly positioned before tightening the two lower hose clamps. 

(Below) The water pump cover is next. The new o-ring seal won't want to stay in place during installation, so I coat it with a film of grease to hold it. I'll refer to my cheat sheet to match the bolt lengths to their positions — note how to measure bolt thread length. Tighten the bolts in an alternating pattern, and it's good practice to renew the drain bolt's crush washer.

(Below) Turning my attention to the right side of the engine, I'll first bolt the small coolant nipple onto the engine block with its fresh o-ring. Next I assemble the new thermostat and housing, and screw in the temperature sensor with a few turns of pipe tape (I don't think the sealing tape is necessary, but it makes me feel better). Plug in the sensor's wire connector before installing onto the engine — if you forget this connector, just use a long needle nose pliers to reach it once the housing is installed. Next I install the coolant hoses with their clamps loosely in place and this assembly is ready to go onto the engine.

(Below) The rear hose is slipped onto its nipple, but not tightened, and the thermostat housing is then bolted into place — don't forget the o-ring between the housing and the engine block. Note that there's a long and a short bolt; here the longer is being installed. Lastly, the rear hose clamps are tightened.

The next step is to install the radiator, and I'll enjoy easy access with the forks temporarily off the bike. For this project we've chosen a GPI aftermarket radiator (see Shop Blog post from Aug. '24), but the installation is the same for an OEM radiator.

(Below) Before beginning, I'll polish the chrome oil cooler lines while the radiator is out of the way. Some of the Gen-2 bikes are supplied with black lines, but these chrome lines were covered in dirt and surface rust. About ten minutes with chrome polish and crumpled aluminum foil has them looking new. A soft brass brush helps to clean the difficult-to-reach areas. In the final photo, note the pre-installed Hindle exhaust pipe adapters and springs.

(Below) The radiator is first slipped onto a stud located on the upper right side of the frame (note the fan wires exiting outboard of the rubber grommet), then the special left-side bracket is slipped into place in the rubber radiator grommet and bolted loosely into the frame. Then work the oil cooler hose into the wire bracket.

(Below) The two lower mounts are next. Often, the grommets won't line up with the frame brackets, as is the case here. I simply loosen the brackets' mounting bolts which allows me to align the radiator bolts and brackets. Tighten the three radiator bolts and, lastly, the lower bracket bolts to the frame. 

I've recently been working to clear my backlog of carburetors in need of rebuilding, consisting of five sets of Gen-3 carbs. It's always a bit like unwrapping a gift when I begin disassembly of a dirty set, never knowing what I might find lying in wait. Clogged jets and petrified gaskets are expected, but there's also broken bits, incorrect parts and creative assembly from past attempts by well-meaning DIYers. Here's a sampling of typical chores.

(Below) These carbs' vacuum diaphragms are afflicted with some sort of white and green stuff, possibly mold or mildew? These slide assemblies are NLA so I treat them with a delicate touch. Here I'm using Zep degreaser, a mild cleaner, massaging the rubber diaphragm with finger pressure and a soft toothbrush around the edges. In extreme cases the round rubber edge can be coated with stubborn crusty corrosion from a rusted diaphragm cap — a challenge to remove without damaging the diaphragm. I use a warm soapy bath and a fingernail to gently scrape the crust off as best I can. If the rubber seems particularly dry I will rub on a thin application of red rubber grease to rejuvenate and preserve the rubber.​ I also clean the plastic slide by scrubbing with a non-scuff kitchen pad followed by a hot water rinse and air dry.

(Below) The main jet needles are often stained with sticky brown varnished gasoline. This I remove with a scrub pad and degreaser or solvent. Two of these four float hinge pins were very difficult to remove due to varnished gas. Here, I'm using 1200-grit paper wetted with Ballistol to cut the varnish, allowing the floats to pivot freely. I like to roll these items (and the pilot adjustment screws) on a flat surface to check for straightness.

(Below) I'm no longer able to source individual float valves for the Gen-3 carburetors, so I rely on Keyster rebuild kits, which are quality Japanese-made parts. Next, this particular carb set had a broken enriching (choke) valve — these are soft brass and don't like to be forced. I learned this long ago when trying to remove a stuck valve by pulling with pliers. It didn't take much force to pop that little head right off, like the one shown here. This one had a bent tip which expectedly broke when straightened. Note that there's two distinct parts here…one has a wider gap to allow room for two pieces of linkage on carbs number 2 & 3 (red arrows). I clean these shafts with 1200-grit sandpaper wetted with cleaner/lube, like WD40 or similar. Shown next is an air cut valve assembly. These are often reusable, like this one, if treated gently. I carefully clean the rubber diaphragm and apply a light film of red rubber grease to preserve it. These assemblies should be removed when performing a thorough carb cleaning.

(Below) Here's two shots of the various parts cleaned and ready for assembly. The pink arrow shows how I mark each carbs' float with permanent marker dots. This way they maintain what float level adjustment they had previously, saving time setting the float heights after installing. I also keep the slide assemblies with their original carbs — not necessary, but my thinking is that each is well mated to their carb, so may as well keep them paired.