I recently found these aftermarket VITON-tipped PROLINE brand float valves while searching eBay for replacements. They're offered by eBay seller sawzillaparts and cost $23.30 for a set of four, delivered. They seem to be of excellent quality and the fit was perfect. I'm a big fan of VITON products so these fit the bill.

(Below) Hopefully your float bowl drain screws haven't gotten to this point of corrosive deterioration. Amazingly, these were still functioning, but there's no way they're going back in. I source these Chinese replacements from eBay seller besthomeve — $7.73 per set of four. These also seem well made and should fit all our carb bowls.

Electrolysis: Mention the word to my wife or daughters and you'll be knee-deep in a discussion about hair removal. But to a gearhead it's all about rust removal. After stumbling upon a few late-night YouTube videos on the subject, I decided to give it a try.

The process is simple, as seen in the diagram to the right. Direct current (12 volt) is passed through water causing rust to release from a negatively charged item to a positively charged piece of metal (anode).

One tool I really wished I had room for in the shop is a media blast cabinet. That is the definitive means of prepping a piece of metal for paint, but media blasting can also affect the base metal's "complexion," while electrolysis will not. However, electrolysis will not remove dirt or paint and leaves a black discoloration which will need to be scrubbed or lightly sanded away. In any case, I wanted to give it a go with a few rusted bits from Project 39 — a rear brake rotor, torque arm, caliper mounting bracket and heat shield.

Here's my basic electrical components; a battery & charger, two strips of scrap steel to act as sacrificial anodes and some lengths of wire with large clips. You can use the charger alone, set to about 2 amps, but I put the battery inline to act as an electrical "sponge," just like in a bike's electrical system. All I need now is a 5-gallon plastic tub and some lengths of wood to suspend the pieces in the water.

(Below) Here, I begin with the caliper bracket and snap ring. After adding warm water with a tablespoon per gallon of baking soda to form the electrolyte, I make the electrical connection. The close-up photo shows the telltale bubbling of the chemical reaction after only a few seconds. ​After about two hours of soaking, I removed the bracket from the brown, opaque solution and…success! The rusted spots were down to bare metal.
(click on images to enlarge)

(Below) Okay, let's try some more serious items. With fresh solution I loaded the brake rotor, heat shield and torque arm, letting them soak all day. The muck that resulted told the story; that's a lot of rust removed. The anodes show how they sacrifice themselves to allow the reaction — these anodes will be sanded clean and used repeatedly. The dirty electrolyte is non-toxic and can be poured down a drain or even on your lawn.

After cleaning and sanding, here's some of the items ready for paint. Was the effort worth it? For items where I just can't reach the rust with sandpaper, like the torque arm, yes. The flat metal heat shield would have gone quicker with just sanding, but the rotor had shallow rust pits that I'm now confident are rust free.

If you're in a hurry, this is not your best approach — it can take 24 hours or even longer for severe rust removal, but for items like these, electrolysis can be a useful tool.

What: 2001 VFR800
Where: Ramona, California
Why: Well-preserved w/extras
Price: $4800

​This beautiful final-year 5th-gen VFR has been listed on the ADVrider site for about six weeks, the only things possibly holding back a sale being the time of year and a slightly optimistic asking price. Showing 20,000 miles and boasting a nice list of upgrades, our seller assures us that the "bike runs and looks incredible."

The photos do look great, and a few of the original parts are included with the sale. This would look great next to the tree on Christmas morning.

Ken Kaplan is an over-enthusiastic motorcycle flipper with shops in Connecticut and Arizona. His alter-ego, Kaplan America, sometimes comes through via his YouTube channel and a couple of episodes on the Discovery Channel's "Kaplan America." He seemingly has endless supplies of vintage bikes of all description, and he's now offering four Honda VF models listed on eBay auctions. All bikes are project status without titles, and all have a video included in the listing.
(click on images for eBay links)

In April of 2022 a shipper dropped off this 1993 VFR750 after being rescued from a backyard shed in Pompano Beach, Florida. The previous owner, Quinn, had one request: do my best to give his former friend a second chance at life. That's kinda what I do, so I accepted the challenge. Upon arrival I stripped the bodywork and gave the bike a general assessment. The odometer is crowding 32,000 miles and the corrosive salt air has done its work over the years, but it's complete and much of the pearl white bodywork is useable as is.

This VFR had a near-death experience long ago in its past — the story goes that it was stolen, but when the kids couldn't get it started by trashing the ignition switch they rolled it down an embankment, damaging the plastics. The insurance company totaled the bike but the owner saved it, repairing the switch and plastics so the bike could live on. Eventually it wouldn't fire up, likely due to inactivity, and the months turned to years till it ended up on my lift. I've seen this story played out many times, but these Hondas were built too well to die that easily.

(Below) I always begin with the carburetors — these had no issues so after an ultrasonic cleaning and fresh jets they were ready to go back on the bike for syncing. But this engine hasn't run in nine years, so before startup there's some critical steps in bringing it back to life. First, I change out the oil and filter; I like these fiber coated aluminum drain plug washers. All the emissions hardware is discarded.
(click on an image to enlarge)

(Below) Next up is the valve clearance check, but first I add some Marvel Mystery Oil to the cylinders using a straw and small funnel. Then liberally pour oil over the valve train. After a day or two I turn the engine over by hand followed by lots of revolutions using a hand drill (or the starter button). This will circulate the engine oil. This engine spun like butter.

(Below) The valve clearance checks revealed that nearly all needed adjustment, requiring the removal of all four cams. For an in-depth demonstration of the procedure visit my YouTube channel. Once reassembled, the compression checks were all within eight psi of one another. The previous owner included new NGK iridium spark plugs.

(Below) Finally, before running the engine I need to plug the four PAIR ports, front and rear (see the "Maintenance" page; Plugging The PAIR Ports). Pictured here are the rear lines being removed, requiring the removal of the shock, which I'll be replacing with a custom unit from DMr. The two airbox emissions ports are also plugged.

SOLD: $42,250 (auction)

Sold via a Bring A Trailer auction, this 1988 Canadian VFR750R fetched a realistic selling price and is heading back home to Canada.

This RC30 has 3700 miles and was refurbished with beautiful fresh paint and maintenance brought up to date.

​Visit the BaT listing to view several videos.

SOLD: $3950 (auction)

This is a rider-grade 1983 VF750F Interceptor showing 35,000 miles. This bike represents an important milestone for its genre, often called the first modern sport bike, and this first-year model shows nicely.

This is an excellent way to enjoy the world of classic motorcycling…with the additional panache of V4 power.

When I acquired Project 40, a 1986 VFR700F, the seller included a grungy old Kerker dual-muffler slip-on with his large stash of "excess" parts. When it came time to decide which exhaust to use on this project, I pulled the Kerker off the shelf for an examination. Under the layers of rust and dirt I found good bones — no dents and just superficial scuffs. This will do nicely.

This particular Kerker has muffler pipes which are grafted onto the stock VFR header collectors, an unusual approach which saved the manufacturer lots of design work while assuring the end user a system that fits correctly.

(Below) After a thorough degreasing/cleaning I begin this process with the aluminum mufflers. The more severe rash is gently ground smooth with the help of a die grinder with medium scuff pad in place, followed by lots of hand sanding using progressive grades of grit. In the middle photo corrosive pock marks are visible, and I want these gone...more sanding. I finish with an 800-grit and, in this case, a gray painters' scuff pad to give the finish a brushed look. During the muffler work I'll need to handle the black steel pipes so I wait till I'm finished with the mufflers before the high-heat paint is applied. The pipes could also be powder or ceramic coated, but here I chose spray paint because I like the original look it provides. The flat black will be rubbed out in a few days to give it a nice factory sheen.
(click on an image to enlarge)

(Below) Next, the end caps need lots of attention. These caps are directly subjected to corrosive exhaust gasses, so I begin with aggressive sanding, even resorting to an orbital sander on the edges. I'm left with clean aluminum, but those sanding marks won't do.

(Below) More hand sanding, again finishing with a gray scuff pad. For the caps I'd like a bit more shine, so a single pass with aluminum polish does the trick. That black residue on the cloth is aluminum — polishing aluminum requires lots of cloth. The black recesses are finished with high-heat paint applied with an artist's brush, this took three coats; any excess wiped clean with solvent. Can't forget the muffler clamps.

(Below) Finally, I'll need to repack the baffles, using a fiberglass muffler packing material sourced from eBay. After marking the required length, just cut with a scissors and wrap around the core. 

(Below) Here, I'm figuring how much of the packing will fit inside the housing, which I mark, then cut the excess. The packing doesn't require securing except maybe when fitting it into the muffler housing, You'll often see thin wire used for this but masking tape works fine also. Finally, I fit the end caps with nicely polished button screws.

It's a problem as old as the industrial revolution…how to remove rusted fasteners. Google the subject for lots of ideas, good and bad, but the first thing most of us reach for is a penetrating oil. Here's a helpful Classic Car Restoration Club article referencing a study which scientifically rated the effectiveness of various popular penetrants.

Here's their list showing breakout torque required using the different oils:

• Nothing = 516 ft. lbs.
• WD-40 = 238 ft. lbs.
• PB Blaster = 214 ft. lbs.
• Liquid Wrench = 127 ft. lbs.
• Kano Kroil = 106 ft. lbs. 
• 50/50 blend of ATF and Acetone = 50 ft. lbs.

I've usually used PB Blaster but always hated its offensive odor. After seeing this comparison I switched to Kroil which is not nearly so pungent. The ATF/Acetone blend is a simple and effective solution also, but remember it's very flammable, so I save that for the worst cases. Check out the full article for more tips.