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Steps

7/30/2018

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Honda calls them "steps," but we might know them as footpeg brackets. And on Project 17 they were in pretty rough-looking shape from years of dirt accumulation and neglect.

At right are the left and right side assemblies broken into their component parts for cleaning and polishing, ready for reassembly.

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And here they are assembled, ready to be installed onto the bike.

Getting to this point represented a few hours of cleaning, rust removal, ultrasonic cleaning, wet-sanding and polishing.

(Below) Here's an example of what you might face while refurbishing these components. This brake pedal is an aluminum part that is severely corroded. After lots of grinding, filling, sanding and polishing we're back to a useable part. It's not "restoration" perfect but is to the level of this project's finish.

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​(Right) With the subframe still off the frame, this is the perfect opportunity to detail the swingarm and shock area. 

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(Right) Here's a tip I use to help with the rear wheel installation.

The caliper bracket needs to be positioned in line with the wheel axle but it just wants to fall toward the floor, making life difficult. Lacking a third hand, I hook up a bungee to give just the right amount of support. Ready for the cleaned wheel and fresh Bridgestone.

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Another Time Capsule For Sale

7/22/2018

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PictureClick on image for the eBay link.
What: 1998 VFR800 FI
Where: Cypress, California
Why: Freakishly low miles, pristine condition
Price: Auction with $7000 opening bid

Low-mile "collector" status bikes are coming out of the woodwork. Just after posting the 1999 800 below, I came across this equally low mileage fifth-generation 800 on eBay.

Our seller claims to be the original owner who developed a medical condition shortly after purchasing the bike, then relegated it to home decor duty for the next twenty years.

Showing only 1562 miles and presented in original, unmolested condition right down to the tires. In spite of some hyperbole regarding a secret Honda museum the bike is still in our seller's possession with a very bullish, but most likely unrealistic, opening bid of $7000. I would love to know what this example eventually sells for. Best of luck to the seller.

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Late Model 6th-Gen For Sale

7/20/2018

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PictureClick on image for the eBay link.
What: 2008 VFR800 VTEC
Where: Jersey City, New Jersey
Why: Great condition, great color, low miles
Price: $3870 or offer

The sixth-gen VFR800 changed up the Interceptor formula. Gone were the gear-driven cams, but new stuff included VTEC valve actuation, available ABS, and a new level of comfort and modern style. The model was produced from 2002-2009, when it was replaced with the completely new 1200F.

Here we have a beautiful example of one of the last of the generation in its subdued but elegant Sword Silver Metallic with matching wheels (no ABS). Showing only 8500 miles and said to be in excellent condition, garage kept and never laid down. Our seller also links four videos of the bike running and riding. If you're in the market for a VTEC VFR, then this one's worthy of a serious look.

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Super Low Mileage 5-gen For Sale

7/20/2018

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PictureClick on image for the eBay link.
What: 1999 VFR800 FI
Where: St. Clair Shores, Michigan (Detroit)
Why: Almost no miles (!)
Price: $5000 or offer

I just came across this fifth-gen 800 up for sale on eBay. Showing an incredibly low mileage of 1245, the seller claims to be the original owner and the bike to be in "pristine as new" condition. If the mileage can be verified then this is a rare opportunity to pick up a showroom example of the first generation 800 — featuring fuel injection but without the VTEC valve gear.

The seller's asking price of $5000 is extreme, but the "make offer" button is active. A more typical fifth-gen with average miles would be valued at around $3500. What does almost no miles add to the value? That's between the seller and buyer; good luck to both.

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Carburetor Synchronising

7/18/2018

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For our purposes carb syncing is the process of setting the individual carb's butterfly valves to open at the same time and same amount. The effect is to provide the same amount of air (and thus fuel) giving us the most power and smoothest operation. This is a crucial step in tuning any multi-cylinder engine, but especially highly tuned, high-performance ones like the V4 Interceptor.

It's a simple concept with the only difficult part being actually getting to the set screws. That's where the Motion Pro 90-degree Hex Driver comes into play.

(Below) In the case of the VFR, I snap on a 7mm socket to fit the adjuster screw. A straight blade screwdriver socket will also fit but is much more difficult to actually use. The reason is that we'll need to fumble around in the dark under the carb set to find the adjuster. The socket is just a more positive engagement. The tool doesn't hold the socket very well (seems to be common with Motion Pro socket tools) so I wrap a bit of teflon tape on the base to help out.

With the engine warmed and idle set at about 1200 RPM, and using number two carb as a (non-adjustable) base, adjust the other three to match. I do this at idle and at a steady higher RPM, about 3000. When I'm happy with the adjustments, shut the engine down, allow it to cool a bit and remove/plug the vacuum ports. There's some good video tutorials on YouTube for more tips. Job done!
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Fire In The Hole

7/18/2018

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Last month I began the process of resurrecting Project 17, an unloved, forgotten VFR750. Starting with a basic stripping and cleaning, I continued with mechanical checks, including valve clearance, compression test and carburetor rebuilding (see previous posts). At each stage the old girl gave me the thumbs up to continue and now we've arrived at the moment of truth: will it run? Here's how it went....
Success! After some initial smoking from oiling the cylinders, the engine ran smoke-free and pretty smoothly, considering I'd yet to sync the carbs. Throttle response was good and no unusual noises. More good news; no leaks and all the lights and tach are functioning normally — things you don't really know about till it the bike's up and running. Next, we'll sync the carbs and continue moving forward with Project 17.
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Re-Sale

7/15/2018

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PictureClick on image for the ADVrider link.
What: 1997 VFR750F
Where: Eldridge, Iowa
Why: Fully optioned, known history, great value
Price: $2800

Last fall I sold this bike, Project 22, to Scott in eastern Iowa. He gave it his best shot, but his knees are not letting him enjoy the VFR experience. It's a real shame as Scott was very excited to get his Interceptor. So, it's back up for sale at a genuine bargain price. His ADVrider ad has it currently listed at $2800.

This VFR has been refurbished by myself, and has a laundry list of farkles. Some highlights:
DMr suspension upgrades
Two Brothers slip-on
Carbon fiber front fender
Reg/Rec upgrade
Bar risers
Throttlemeister
Pazzo levers
Seat cowl
NOLOGY ignition wires
Heated Grips
...and much more.

A great-looking, final year VFR750 ready for many years of enjoyment. Contact Scott via the ADVrider PM link (may require registration), or directly:
Scott Grunder
563-650-7946
cyberhog9@yahoo,com


The photos shown here are from my photo album:
https://flic.kr/s/aHsm8E3hT6

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Carb Installation

7/14/2018

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As your shop manual likes to say, "installation is the reverse of disassembly." Which is true, but here's a few tips I've learned over the years.

Note: I will be syncing these carbs once the engine is running, so before proceeding with this install, I've connected the sync tool's vacuum hose adaptors and hoses — see a previous post ("Preparing For Carb Sync") for details.

Note: Check your carbs for leaks before installing: see my technique at the bottom of this post.

If your carb insulators (manifold boots) are hardened with age, simplify your life by installing fresh boots, which are still available from Honda. First remove the lower clamps and, with a large pliers, give the old boot a firm tug to remove. Clean up the area and push the new boot into place, noting that the groove adjacent to the word "Carb" is oriented to 12-o'clock (below). Install all eight boot clamps, oriented to the left, and tighten the lowers.
(click on any small image to enlarge)
(Below) I wipe a film of grease or something similar on the lip of the boots to help the carbs slip into place. Place the carb set square to the front boots and push firmly down till seated in the front boots, verifying that they're seated with a flashlight. To get the rears in place I maintain downward pressure with my left hand while running the blade of a flat screwdriver along the inside of both rear carb boots with my right hand. If your boots are fresh and supple they will "pop" into place after repeating the screwdriver trick two or three times. Tip: if you're in a cold environment, adding heat to the boots with a heat gun will help soften the boots.
(Below) Tighten the upper boot clamps making sure that the clamp is square in its groove all the way around. Use a flashlight to verify this as you tighten the clamp. The 1990+ clamps have an upgraded design to hold them square, but the earlier models don't. Install the throttle cable ferules, then the cable bracket's two screws. Install the choke cable ferule, then tighten into its clamp. Tip: A long screwdriver is invaluable to reach the right side carbs...and a JIS screwdriver is always recommended.
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​Finally, install the complete air filter housing along with the type of air filter that you plan to use. In this case I'll be using a fresh K&N filter so I'll remember to remove the rubber gaskets in both the top and bottom air filter housings. The K&N won't fit correctly with those gaskets in place. I'll keep them in case a future owner wants to go back to OEM.

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​(Right) At this point I'll connect the fuel I.V. direct to the carb intake line in preparation for engine start. If you do this, disconnect the fuel pump power supply at its connector just above the pump. The pump relay can remain connected.

​You can also use the fuel tank and pump with all its plumbing hooked up.

With the radiator reinstalled (and filled), double check all your connections, hook up the battery, and we're ready to hit the magic button!
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Leak Check
(Below) Here's a tip I learned the hard way. You'll want to check your carb work for leaks, and having the carbs completely mounted is not the best time to do that — if there's a leak it'll be dripping all over your engine or, worse, overflowing the vents directly into the intake manifolds and down into the engine. Save yourself all that potential grief by checking the carbs on the bench.

I simply place the carb set into a large tub, connect the I.V., open the spigot, and let them set for a few hours. Any leaks are contained, and because the carbs are still off the bike, finding and fixing a leak is less painful.
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Hungary Riders

7/13/2018

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I've seen these guys before. They're a really dedicated riders group in Hungary who call themselves Club Hungary Sikonda. Here's a shot from one of their recent gatherings. Near as I can tell, they run their club rides the same way we do: Ride, admire, eat, drink, repeat. They can be found at:
http://www.hondavfrclub.hu
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Groundhog Ride

7/10/2018

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After my haircut appointment this morning I decided to take the long way home. While it's not the easiest proposal in the northwest suburbs of Chicagoland, I managed to find some back roads in a westerly direction and ended up in the picturesque little town of Woodstock, IL. If you're even passingly familiar with the 1993 movie, Groundhog Day, you'll remember the quaint town square portrayed in the movie as Punxsutawney, PA — but it was actually Woodstock, IL.

The little square hasn't changed much in the 25 years since filming there, and these days the town uses the provenance to market itself as a shopping destination. Today, the farmer's market was in full swing but I managed to find a cup of coffee and a park bench a few feet from the bandstand. Lots of people watching and a pleasant diversion before heading home.

Near downtown I came across this well-kept former gas station. I thought it would make an awesome little vintage bike shop...but then I think that about a lot of old gas stations. 
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