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I like bar risers — the older I get the more I like bar risers. You might not think that 20mm would be very effective in relieving wrist and shoulder stress, but it actually is. I've used these for decades on various clip-on style bars. The beauty of this simple design is that they retain the original throttle/choke cables, brake and electrical lines. I can mount or remove these risers in less than ten minutes. They're produced from billet aluminum via CNC and anodized in silver.

Last year I realized that GenMar was no longer producing bar risers for the 1986-87 VFR700/750. So I contacted MOTO-CNC in the UK to inquire as to the possibility of producing these, as they already offer them for the later model VFRs. After some discussion I sent the company the pertinent measurements and agreed to purchase the first batch of ten as an incentive. I still have a limited number of sets on hand and am offering them for my cost of $100, shipping included to CONUS. 

Well, I don't often see this; here's an eBay seller offering a set of four spark plugs to fit the RC36 (1990-97) VFR750. They're the correct NGK plug, CR8EH-9, but the twist here is that they're used. He's asking $19.99 shipped, or $5 per spark plug.

Now. I realize that this particular plug number is priced at the high end of typical standard plugs for classic motorcycles — a check on eBay shows these offered for $10-20…each! Even my local NAPA gets $12.30 each w/tax.

My work-around for getting a better deal on spark plugs is to order from Rock Auto (.com) — four of these plugs shipped to Illinois comes to $33.41, or $8.35 per plug. Still not cheap, but beats getting gouged on eBay (and see the note below).

For comparison, the previous generation RC24/26 (1986-87) plugs, NGK DPR9EA-9, are a less expensive plug for whatever reason; I get these in 10-packs from Rock Auto for $2.78 each, shipped, or $3.37 each if purchasing only four plugs. NAPA wants $4 each.

NOTE: If you find these plugs cheaper elsewhere, including Amazon & eBay, beware, there's a thriving counterfeit business in NGK plugs, a good reason to buy from a reputable NGK dealer. Here's one video that may help, and there's others.

Yesterday I finished rebuilding a set of 2d-gen carburetors. Before installing fresh carbs I always perform a leak test on the bench. To my surprise, this set began leaking within minutes. Tracing the trail of gas, I found it began at the "T" fuel junction, pictured below. Try as I might, I could not discern a crack in the fitting, but swapped it out anyway — problem solved. On the bench I finally located the tiny crack shown in the photo. This is why I test for leaks before installation.

This part is still available from Honda. The same part fits '86-97 models but the RC36 part number differs from the RC24/26…and is less expensive. Part number 17193-MN5-000, about $17.

Here's a story many of us wish we could experience our own version of. In January reader Tom S. contacted me looking for some painting guidance for his 1986 VFR700F. In his email he shared his tale of lost and found:

A beautiful bike and a great story. Tom found a local painter who was able to match the Shasta White and also a decal supplier in Canada, BDesigns, to supply the reproduction 700-specific decal:
www.bdesigns.ca/80s_Honda.htm
With the left side fairing repaired Tom and his old friend are ready to experience the back roads of Wisconsin and Minnesota…just like the old days.

What: 1986 VF1000R
Where: Scottsdale, Arizona
Why: Build your own VF1000R
Price: Auction ends Thursday

Here's one for 1000R fans. A two-year model in the U.S., this 1986 is the final iteration sporting the cool dual headlights. With values of nice, original examples topping $10K, this one will be tempting to an owner who wishes to add value by way of getting his/her hands dirty.

And dirty they will become. The bike has been non-running for at least four years, has non-original paint which may or may not be up to your standard, shows 32,615 miles, is fitted with an aftermarket Supertrapp single muffler and is generally showing its age. Otherwise, it seems complete and mostly original, judging by the supplied photos. There's some upgraded parts already installed, but the usual refurbishment tasks await. The opening bid is $999 with no reserve. If you're this bike's next caretaker, please keep me advised on your progress.

What: 2000 VFR800
Why: Great condition, nice extras
Where: Millington, New Jersey
Price: $3250

The only model year Honda offered a VFR in Pearl Shining Yellow (in the US), the 2000 Interceptor cuts a striking profile. This example shows 26,950 miles and sports a few well-chosen mods, including a not-too-common handlebar conversion, Delkevic slip-on and a 520 chain conversion with modified gearing. The bike is otherwise complete and all stock components are included in the sale. The seller states that it "runs and rides perfectly" with maintenance up-to-date, including fork service. Some scratches are noted on the left fairing.

Overall, a great-looking example at a realistic price.

I put together a collection of the parts I use in every 2d-gen carburetor rebuild. These parts will allow a complete rebuild from the fuel joint o-rings to the bowl gaskets…and more.

I sourced the best quality parts I could find and also include a set of new EBC #40 pilot jets, which I find help with general throttle response (later VFR models use #40 as OEM).

The price is $80 shipped to CONUS, inquire for shipping elsewhere. Combine with the Fuel Line Kit for a total of $100.

​See the "Products" page for details.

As Project 42 enters the final assembly phase, it's time to mount the refurbished footpeg assemblies. These are polished aluminum castings and time has dulled their appearance and function. The right side also carries the rear brake master cylinder and brake light switch (3rd- and 4th-gen models also have a heat shield attached). After years of neglect the pivot points may be bound with dirt and lubricant.

On my projects I always remove, disassemble, clean, sand and polish the castings, rebuild the master and carefully assemble everything. The castings can be polished to a mirror finish, if desired, but I stop at an 800-grit wet/dry sanding to preserve the factory sheen, then coat with a protective finish of Sharkhide. I also have the option of painting the brake and shift levers as the factory did, or grinding, sanding and polishing them to a chrome-like finish. In this case I want to preserve the original look, so these are painted with a silver/aluminum color, plus a satin clearcoat. This master cylinder is black from the factory, which required repainting, but later models wore a natural, unpolished aluminum finish.

Removing oxidation spots from the polished aluminum surfaces can be labor intensive, depending upon the degree of corrosion. In this case, all of this work took the better part of a day. In the left photo we see the right-side components for this 1986 VFR750 followed by both sides fully assembled, ready to install. TIP: Adjusting the brake light switch activation point is much easier if done before mounting on the bike.