Plastic repair has become an unfortunate necessity when working with our older sport bikes. Time and use have conspired to produce cracks and outright breakage.
In the case of a restoration, I will do a permanent welding repair, but that's not always appropriate nor necessary. This photo shows some spider cracking emanating from a mounting hole on the side fairing from an RC26. A full welding repair would require repainting the piece, as both the front and back would be grooved and welded, the front ground smooth and body filler applied. But in this case, we wanted to preserve the otherwise presentable fairing, so I will stabilize the cracks to prevent further damage.
(click on images to enlarge)
In the case of a restoration, I will do a permanent welding repair, but that's not always appropriate nor necessary. This photo shows some spider cracking emanating from a mounting hole on the side fairing from an RC26. A full welding repair would require repainting the piece, as both the front and back would be grooved and welded, the front ground smooth and body filler applied. But in this case, we wanted to preserve the otherwise presentable fairing, so I will stabilize the cracks to prevent further damage.
(click on images to enlarge)
To accomplish this with minimal visual effect, I will reinforce the cracks from the rear using heat, metal staples and Plast-aid repair plastic, shown here.
(Below) I begin by cleaning the area and scuffing the plastic with a grinding bit in the Dremel, giving a rough surface to help adhesion.
I then shape the staples as needed, laying them strategically at the reinforcement points. Next, I use the plastic welding tool (a soldering iron will also work) to heat the metal just enough to melt them partially into the plastic. Overheating the metal will produce telltale lumps on the "good" side, so proceed cautiously.
(Below) I begin by cleaning the area and scuffing the plastic with a grinding bit in the Dremel, giving a rough surface to help adhesion.
I then shape the staples as needed, laying them strategically at the reinforcement points. Next, I use the plastic welding tool (a soldering iron will also work) to heat the metal just enough to melt them partially into the plastic. Overheating the metal will produce telltale lumps on the "good" side, so proceed cautiously.
(Below) Next, I combine the Plast-aid powder and liquid according to instructions. The proportions will affect the viscosity of the mixture, so if it's too runny, I let it set up for a minute or two till it pours correctly for the job at hand. I want to keep the mixture from flowing away from the cracks. This product sets fairly quickly; in ten minutes you will have solid plastic so work accordingly.
After about 30 minutes to allow a full cure, this part is ready to be put back in service. While not a "full" repair, I've managed to mitigate further damage to the part and avoided repainting a fairing that's "only original once."
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