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Saving Float Bowl Drain Screws

11/28/2025

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One of the many small tasks which are part of a full carburetor rebuild is dealing with corroded float bowl drain screws. This part is not available separately from Honda, though aftermarket replacements are. The photo at right shows a freshly removed screw in typical condition with its corroded cone tip.

That tip is what seals the fuel, not the o-ring — that just directs the draining fuel through the drain nipple. To ensure a full seal I want to polish the tip to a smooth, even surface.

For this I use a piece of 400-grit wet/dry paper wetted with a lubricant, like Ballistol or WD-40. You can do this by hand or, for better/quicker results, I just chuck the screw in my hillbilly lathe — a drill — and spin it till I'm happy with the look of the tip. This one looks ready for its next 40 years.

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Thanksgiving Day

11/27/2025

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Annealing Aluminum Washers

11/25/2025

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Here's a trick I learned in my aviation days. I try to reuse Honda's OEM carburetor parts when they're still serviceable, and this includes the float valve seats. These are quality brass parts and, with a little effort, will clean up nicely. But, that leaves their thin aluminum sealing washers, a unique dimension which I've never been able to source, so I'll need to reuse the old washers.

One useful property of aluminum (or copper) is its ability to be "re-softened," allowing the "crush" part of a crush washer to reappear. When metal is "worked," it naturally hardens, becoming more brittle. Torquing down a fixture, like an oil drain plug, is considered working the metal washer and it looses some of its flexibility, or softness in this case. I know…you can just torque harder and force the used washer to crush, but you also risk stripping some threads or not being successful, resulting in a leak, and a leaking float valve washer will flood the carb bowl, showing up on the garage floor. In other words, this is not somewhere we want to risk a leak.

(Below) Here's a quick and simple way to bring used aluminum washers back to life. I begin with a quick cleaning using spray solvent. I then mark each washer with a permanent marker — when I add heat the mark will disappear as the aluminum reaches the correct temperature. The thin aluminum is easily overheated and will distort, rendering them useless, so the permanent marker is a handy indicator (soot from a candle flame will accomplish the same thing, but a Sharpie is handier). Using any portable small torch — here I'm using my Sondiko butane torch — evenly heat the washers on a metal surface just till the marks disappear. Remove the heat and allow to naturally cool. I heated these for about 15 seconds, so this is a quick chore. When cool, the crush washers are good as new.

Some interweb experts will say to shock cool the metal in a bath of water or oil. This isn't correct for our purposes. Dousing the hot metal actually tends to harden it a bit, the opposite of our goal.

Copper items use a different heat level; the metal is heated till it turns a ruddy brown, then cooled.

(click on an image to enlarge)
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Beautiful Gen-3 For Sale In Ohio

11/23/2025

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PictureClick on image for a link to the dealer's website
What: 1991 (?) VFR750F
​Why: Clean, original, low miles
Where: Xenia, Ohio
Price: $6500

Williams Vintage Cycle Company in central Ohio is offering this very original-looking Gen-3 VFR. The ad lists the bike as a 1991, but the white wheels would indicate a 1990 ​model. Showing only 16,086 miles, this one includes the passenger seat cowl, a hard-to-find item if missing. The dealer indicates recent maintenance is completed, the bike starts well cold or hot, everything "works as it should" and the tool kit and Haynes manual are included. I'm a little surprised to not see a center stand, as I've always assumed it was standard on all Gen-3s.

A little hyperbole may be in play when the phrase "collector quality condition" is used, as there's a few imperfections visible in the photos, including what appears to be a chip on the tank's left side. That's not to take away from the bike's overall condition, which is pretty stunning, as evidenced by the beautiful original windscreen and perfect-fitting mirror covers, two common wear indicators. This example appears to be a genuine survivor, right down to the unmolested rear fender, almost never found intact after 30+ years. Taken altogether, the asking price of $6500 is at the top of the market, but so is the bike. Any classic bike enthusiast should be proud to roll up on this beauty.

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NC30 For Sale In Illinois

11/19/2025

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PictureClick on image for the FB M'place ad
What: 1989 VFR400R (NC30)
Why: Very nice original example
Where: Crystal Lake, Illinois
Price: $16,000

This lovely first-year NC30 is hiding 45 minutes from the sprawling V4 Dreams campus, tucked away as a display piece. There's not much for details in the Marketplace ad, but it's a Japanese import with a current Illinois title, the odometer shows 11,200 miles and this '89 model sports its big brother's RC30 paint scheme.

This is the final model in the VFR400R lineage, evolving into the updated RVF400R NC35 in 1994. If your stature and flexibility fit the more compact dimensions of the NC bikes, these are competent and useable street bikes…and look great to boot.

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Doppelgängers

11/17/2025

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I happened across a photo of a 1990 Ducati the other day and was struck by how closely it resembles the 1990 Honda VFR. I realize styles follow trends, but it sure looks like someone was admiring someone else's design.
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Market Watch: 1st-year Interceptor w/ 267 Miles

11/13/2025

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PictureClick on image for the Iconic link
SOLD: $11,128

This exceptional 1983 VF750F Interceptor sold earlier this month on Iconic Motorbikes Auctions for an impressive $10,400 + buyers fee. The bike is a Euro-spec example (note the gold wheels), was reportedly imported when new, has a California title and shows only 267 miles!

The photos show a high level of originality and condition, with some expected patina creeping through after 42 years as a display piece. Recent maintenance has brought it back to operational status, with the odd omission of mounting new tires (original tires are sometimes left on collectible bikes, but these are not originals).

Often cited as the first modern Superbike — near-stock examples won eight of the fourteen AMA Nationals in 1983 — this is an important Honda, especially to us V4 fans. It probably belongs in a museum but I hope its new caretaker isn't afraid to add some miles…on fresh rubber.

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Today Is Veterans Day

11/11/2025

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November 11 is Veterans Day—a day to honor and remember the bravery, contributions, and sacrifices of the members of our armed services who have defended us so ably, who have run toward danger rather than away from it, and helped to sustain our freedom through their courage and service.
 
Yes, you can thank a veteran for your freedom. On November 11, be sure to show our veterans that you respect their years of service and commitment to this country. Salute them, in your own way, on Veterans Day.
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Please Don't Do This To Your Engine

11/10/2025

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From The Archives: November 2022
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The space vehicle we call Earth has tilted once again, reducing Mother Sun's effective calefaction to those of us on the top half of the globe…in other words, winter us upon us, and here in America's snow belt, that translates into some five months of motorbike hibernation.

Machines don't respond well to disuse, but there's at least one common storage misconception that we need to heed, and that's the fallacy that running an engine during storage is somehow "good" for the machine. It is not, and the photo above is graphic proof. What we're looking at is an amazing window into the innards of a 1986 VFR750F (Project 38), thanks to Sebspeed's modified clutch cover. What we see is a huge accumulation of moisture created when a cold engine has been run for the first few minutes after startup. What we don't see is the production of acids created by the incomplete combustion process, due to the cold engine's need for a rich fuel setting and those gasses slipping past the not-yet-expanded cylinders and rings. Note that by "cold" I mean any ambient temperature — not just the cold months. This photo was taken on a warm summer day.

This situation took 20 minutes of running in order to heat the engine's interior to the point where the excess moisture finally evaporated and the window cleared. When a well-meaning owner starts his engine every few weeks and idles it for several minutes this is what he or she is producing. The inside surfaces of the crankcase are awash in this water and acid soup, and when it's shut down the corrosion of aluminum and steel parts begins — bearings, gears, camshafts, etc. A stored engine does not need this exercise, but if you insist on making yourself feel better by running your stored engine, then it must be taken on the road for at least 20 minutes of normal riding to effectively dissipate this stuff. If not, you're doing more harm than good.

And, speaking of acids, remember that used motor oil holds suspended combustion acids. These too will spend the winter months eating away at your engine's internal bits. That's why engine oil should be changed at the END of the riding season, NOT the beginning.

Be considerate of our machine's needs; when the warmth returns we will be rewarded with a willing and able riding companion.
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End-Of-Season Service

11/6/2025

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Yesterday I deferred to Mother Nature in the face of our changing seasons, sneaking a final ride on a beautiful sunny day in preparation for winter storage. My '93 VFR seemed to appreciate the gesture, running splendidly in the cool, dry air and handling my local twisties with smoothness and confidence. I realize that personifying machines is just a human foible, but those of us who relate to mechanical devices know how real it feels.
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With the engine warmed, last season's oil drained easily, followed by screwing on a new HiFlo Filtro HF303 and the oddly gratifying addition of fresh Honda GN-4 10w40 — speaking of, I was shocked to find my dealer's oil price had grown to $37 from my last purchase of $25! Tariffs? Inflation? Price gouging?
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With fewer than 1000 miles accumulated over the season, my additional checks went smoothly; chain clean/lube, check the hydraulic fluids and apply a coat of instant detailer. I had already filled the tank on my previous ride with ethanol-free fuel with added stabilizer, so no worries there. A final check of the tire pressures and I think she's ready for a winter's sleep.

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