Back in January this 2002 VFR800 Interceptor came to us from the original owner in suburban Chicago. Mike had used the bike as intended — a sport touring mount complete with Hondaline saddle bags, top trunk and a Honda extended service package. He racked up 36,000 miles, mostly on the beautiful roads of the Appalachians. Mike is done riding now, and his baby is ready for its next caretaker.
(click on the image for a hi-resolution photo gallery)

Some odd jobs remain to finish up this 2002 VFR800. One can be particularly messy — chain cleaning. Lots of ways to skin this cat, but my go-to is a tool I found many years ago with the catchy name of Chain Zoiler.

This clever device does most of the dirty work for you. It consists of a square-shaped chamber with plastic bristles on all four sides which clamps around the chain. You then tie off the adjustable little rope to a handy spot, like the footpeg, attach a can of WD-40 to the flexible tube, and inject WD-40 while rotating the wheel forward. The device scrubs the crud which drips downward into a catch pan. With the chain degreased, remove the Chain Zoiler and wipe the chain clean with an old rag. I then take the bike out for a short ride to fling the residual WD-40 off, clean the wheel and apply chain lube. Job done.

Next up is the dirty and sun-faded chain guard. I'll use my favorite plastic protectant, 303 (throw way your ArmorAll, this mil-spec product is way better).





(Below) But first a thorough cleaning and degreasing — yes, I even clean the underside, I'm that guy.

(Below) This chain guard looks new. With full access, now's the time to detail the swingarm area.

(Below) This bike is in need of new brake pads all around, but I'll want to clean the entire caliper during this service. With the old brake pads removed, I scrub the caliper inside and out with some water-based degreaser and thoroughly rinse. This gives me nice clean pistons — important because the next step is to push the pistons flush with the caliper surface to make way for the new, thicker pads, and I don't want all that corrosive brake crud and road dirt to damage the bores and seals.

(Right) I compress the pistons by slowly pressing them inward using a padded slip-jaw pliers and a length of old paint stir stick. Remember to first empty the brake fluid reservoir to accommodate the fluid being pushed back through the master cylinder.


​(Below) Before installing the new pads, I clean, inspect and lube the brake pad pin. The pin is reusable if it's not gouged. A light coating of grease is sufficient. Before and after cleaning.

(Right) These pads were on their last few miles.

​(Right)
​Don't forget to polish your nuts!

(Right) Finally, a full-body color sanding and machine buffing to bring out the best of this Italian Red beauty. The headlight lenses get the same treatment.





(Below) Ready for her close-up.

Our seller indicates all the bikes are in running condition with varying levels of originality and cosmetic quality. Details are scarce, but the 500 and 750 look pretty good in the photos, while the 1000 "has been raced in the past and shows it" — a bit of refreshing truth in advertising.

Opening bid is $8000 with a buy-it-now of $9000. Let's break this down: Assuming average condition for the 500 and 750, they might have a market value of about $2000 and $3000 respectively, while the non-original, more "used" 1000 maybe $3000, for a total of $8000. A more hopeful buyer might value them a bit higher, a more cautious type a bit lower. In my experience of buying old motorbikes sight-unseen, I would tend lower. So our seller is in the ballpark. We'll see if someone out there is in the market for an instant collection.

P.S. The listing mentions the Barber collection of VFRs. The photos below show what he's referencing. That 750 was the second bike acquired in this impressive museum collection.

Also from ADVrider's VFR Thread, contributor zzrwood felt the need to tease us deprived American riders with this beautiful photo of his VFR800X. Known in other markets as the Crossrunner, and available since 2011, it's an adventure-styled version of the eighth-generation VFR800 Interceptor. The engine is unchanged from the Interceptor so it's basically a more comfortable, upright V4 800. This photo was taken on day one of his 4000-km ride from Brisbane to the Australian Alps. A lucky guy.

I've noticed over the years that VFR sellers are quick to defend higher mileage bikes with something like, "these bikes routinely go 100,000 miles." So where are all these 100K VFRs? Well, here's two of 'em, and 100,000 is just the start. From ADVrider.com, MapMaster provides this photo of two long-legged VFRs and the following;

"Went on the first significant ride of the season. A glamping trip to World's End State Park in PA. Met several old friends there: So I present 350,000 miles of VFR for your viewing pleasure. Yeah, they're dirty (lots of schmutz on PA roads in April) and it's not a very good picture. 141k on the '91 (left), 208k on my younger and dirtier '96."

Of course they're dirty — they never sit still.

Project 23 is getting a set of heated hand grips installed. I'll be using an "under the grip" aftermarket kit from Heat Demons by Symtec. I've used these for years with good results. I find them online for about $50.

I like this type of installation because it allows me to use whatever handgrip I choose, even the OEM replacements, which are still available from Honda. I've used other style kits, like Oxford, and I've found that they're capable of greater heat output, but this kit supplies all the heat I've ever found necessary and is less expensive. The kit contains everything pictured, including your choice of a toggle or rocker switch. I've chosen the rocker. These kits are available with a handy switch mounting bracket which allows mounting on any 6mm bolt or screw. Despite that bracket being pictured in the eBay listing and my specifically asking the seller if it is, indeed, in the package, my order arrived sans bracket. I want to mount the switch on the clutch perch, so I'll need to make my own. I won't be using that seller again.

In a previous post, I've run a 12-volt supply wire to the headlight fairing area. The sequence I follow is to install the heaters, install the grips, locate the switch and connect the wiring. After testing, I safely tuck everything away. 

(Below) These grips have seen their day, so a razor makes removal easy. I seldom reuse old grips as there's such a great variety of aftermarket available for reasonable prices. If I do want to save the grips, I slide a long skinny blade under the grips to loosen them, squirt some WD-40 in the gap and work them off. Next, I remove any residual grip glue — we need a clean surface to adhere the heating element. Some acetone or similar works well.

(Below left) Install the heating element so that the wires exit at about 1 o'clock (throttle) and 11 o'clock (clutch). Be precise, you only get one chance.
​(Below right) The clutch side is provided with a length of heat shrink — it provides insulation from the metal handlebar.

I've chosen a set of ProGrip 717 grips.

(Below) My next step is to mount the switch. If you don't mind drilling a hole into fairing panels, that would be a quick and easy solution. But I don't want to do that to these old machines, and I assume that a future owner wouldn't appreciate it either.

I like the switch near the clutch, and there's usually just enough room off the lower clutch mounting bolt. I start with a piece of flat aluminum plate and basically copy the factory bracket which I've used in the past. Here, I'm test fitting the rough bracket before final finishing and paint.

(Below left) Next, I make all the wire connections. Note the ground wire located to a handy frame bolt.
(Below right) After testing, all the wires are tidied up. I like to encase the wire bundle in a length of heat shrink.

With everything in place, the switch is mounted...and this project is complete.

This modern convenience added to an old bike is a nice touch, and it's completely removable if a future owner desires.

What: 2007 VFR800 Anniversary Edition
Where: Phoenix, Arizona
Why: Beautiful, updated...and white wheels!
Price: $5400

If I were to build a personal VFR800, this would be it. The cosmetics catch my eye and the upgrades seal the deal. Our seller is an Interceptor enthusiast and it shows in this example.

The maintenance is up-to-date (well, no word on a valve check), the suspension is upgraded front and rear and a comfy Sargent seat is fitted along with a set of HeliBars, helping to make this bike a nice place to spend a day. The Leo Vince pipes and matching Power Commander tune will let that V4 music and performance shine through. The icing on this cake are some nice factory options: rear seat cowl, saddlebags and ABS. The seller presents his VFR as a clean, ready-to-ride bike, and the photos/description support that.

The asking price is at the top of the range, to be expected for this top of the range example. But I couldn't duplicate this bike for that dollar amount — the only issue being $5400 is creeping close to the values of seventh and eighth generation bikes on the market. Still, this one speaks to me, so I hope it sells soon or I see a fly-n-ride in my near future.

Winter sometimes shows a stubborn streak here in the Hinterlands. The ground may have been bare grass when I awoke this morning but by noon it looked like this outside the shop door...and just kept coming. Seems like a good day for some garage therapy.

Project 23, a 2002 VFR800, is in its reassembly stage, so with the forks, bar risers and handlebars back in place it's a perfect time to install a set of heated grips. That process begins with supplying 12 volts of power to the front of the bike. A quick and easy solution might be to simply tap into a handy wire that has keyed power, like one of the running lights or a tail light. But the grips will draw substantial amps so I want full power available. Another consideration for using a relay might be that an owner may want to add additional power accessories, like a power socket or heated gear connection. And that's why I like to install a keyed relay. I know that a full-amp power source is at hand.

I begin with the items shown at right, sourced from eBay, Amazon or a local parts store.

I'm using a five-wire relay plus a fused power wire (the red loop thingy). I will use a five- to ten-amp mini fuse.

The wires are used as follows:
Black: 12v power direct from the battery.
White: Ground.
Pink: Power "out."
Yellow: "Trigger" power (activates the relay).
Blue: This wire has an opposite function; it is only "live" (closed circuit) when the key is off. That way power can actually be fed back into the battery. With the key on, it's open, or "dead." That makes it a perfect splice for a battery tender, as it will only work with the key off. A four-wire relay omits this wire.

(Below) Next I'll need a spot to mount the relay. The 800 has a few choices; some bikes don't. I find a nice spot near the rear brake fluid reservoir, mark the mounting hole, drill, and insert a well nut. I can't access the underside, otherwise I could simply use a nut and bolt to secure.
(click on images to enlarge)

(Below) I want to use that reservoir mounting bolt as my ground, so I remove it and grind away any paint, giving a clean, effective electrical ground.

Time to make some connections. Crimp connectors have their place, but I sure feel better when there's some solder involved.

I use my Weller Portasol, a butane powered iron — no wires! I'm also a believer in flux, even though it's old school and not technically necessary.

(Below) I make all the wire connections to the harness and then extend them out to their respective destinations, beginning with the ground...'cause it's closest. Then the fused power lead from the battery positive. Next, I'll select a "trigger" source — this activates the relay when the key is turned on, so any convenient keyed wire will do. I this case I chose the license light wire, and use an easy side-by-side connector. I will later securely tape this connection. Lastly, the power "out" wire is extended...and the underseat portion of the project is complete.

(Below) With all the wiring secured, I run the power wire forward along a convenient path, keeping clear of hot parts or anything that could cause chafing. In this case I followed the brake lines along the top of the left-side frame. Once I exit into the headlight fairing, I'll test that electrons are flowing as intended, and the relay installation is complete.
Next, install and wire a set of heated grips.

Oberdan Bezzi — Design Renderer

I will admit that I was not familiar with Mr. Bezzi, but a recent article in The Vintagent piqued my interest. Italian born and bred, with a passion for motorcycle design, he's worked as an internal designer for manufacturers but is now a freelancer. Apparently Oberdan is internet-famous for his prolific renderings. He may have a sport bike bent, but will happily put his talents toward any genre.

Despite being an artist at heart, Bezzi nonetheless appreciates the innate connection between the designer and the rider — the all-important emotional connection to aesthetic design.
“As a designer, my mission is to meet the expectations of the motorcyclist, this often contrasts with the inputs given by the manufacturers, which, for obvious commercial reasons, try to keep costs down, so it’s always a struggle between the designer’s ideas and those trying to rein in expenses. Motorcycles are products that are born to be sold and like all products — especially for those that must satisfy our ego — if they are ‘ugly’, they sell little and poorly. It’s impossible to satisfy everyone’s needs and tastes, so I believe good design is correctly responding to the desires of the many, but not everyone.”

Oberdan depends heavily on his historical perspective to find inspiration.
“If you know the history of the motorcycle and the history of a brand you’re developing a project for, you can always find the answers. The motorcycle doesn’t re-invent itself every time, it’s a continuous process of refinement, of trial and error. Today’s motorcycle is technically very different from the first motorized bicycles, but in the end, it always has two-wheels with an engine in the middle surmounted by a tank and a saddle. The motorcyclist is intrinsically traditionalist and doesn’t want to change that.”

To my eye, his designs achieve that elusive balance of mechanics and emotions. Some examples....
(click on an image to enlarge)
Clockwise from upper left:
Honda CB1100 reimagined as an RC30
Victory Roadster concept
Royal Enfield's new twin in the Hurricane's image
Guzzi Scrambler concept

I've just finished up a major service to my Victory tourer. I needed to lift either end of the bike for various jobs and didn't really get a warm and fuzzy (safe) feeling by simply jacking the whole 850 pounds into the air with nothing more than a flat scissors jack, as the manual suggests, considering the tugging and torquing I'd be doing. I wanted the bike secured a little better.

This gave me an excuse to finally buy an adjustable chock, figuring that it would also be handy for other bikes around the shop. This would be an occasional tool, so I didn't feel the need to spring for something like the Condor, though I'd used one of those for years on a trailer and knew it was a tough piece of equipment. Instead I checked the reviews for Harbor Freight's version, broke out my 25% off coupon and grabbed one at my local store for only $50.

When I got it home, I emptied the box, bolted the front support/tie-down bar into place, adjusted the cradle position to fit the Victory's front tire and rolled it into place. Oops. Not so fast — when rolling a bike onto the chock, the entire piece just slides forward on the floor, which explains why the Condor video in the earlier link shows it blocked against a wall. I wanted it out in the open, so I simply sank two concrete anchors into a floor seam (won't show when the anchors are removed) and bolted 'er down. Very secure. After some experimentation with wheel sizes, I marked the frame adjustment holes for the different bikes' tires, front and rear, in the shop. This thing works as advertised and holds the bike very securely. For the Victory, I added some tie-downs for a little piece of mind, but later never felt the need for those. Be aware that the cradle isn't designed for really fat rear tires. I would recommend this product.
(Below) Ready to start the project.