This tutorial can also be found on the "Maintenance" page
Project 23 is getting a set of heated hand grips installed. I'll be using an "under the grip" aftermarket kit from Heat Demons by Symtec. I've used these for years with good results. I find them online for about $50.
I like this type of installation because it allows me to use whatever handgrip I choose, even the OEM replacements, which are still available from Honda. I've used other style kits, like Oxford, and I've found that they're capable of greater heat output, but this kit supplies all the heat I've ever found necessary and is less expensive. The kit contains everything pictured, including your choice of a toggle or rocker switch. I've chosen the rocker. These kits are available with a handy switch mounting bracket which allows mounting on any 6mm bolt or screw. Despite that bracket being pictured in the eBay listing and my specifically asking the seller if it is, indeed, in the package, my order arrived sans bracket. I want to mount the switch on the clutch perch, so I'll need to make my own. I won't be using that seller again.
In a previous post, I've run a 12-volt supply wire to the headlight fairing area. The sequence I follow is to install the heaters, install the grips, locate the switch and connect the wiring. After testing, I safely tuck everything away.
(Below) These grips have seen their day, so a razor makes removal easy. I seldom reuse old grips as there's such a great variety of aftermarket available for reasonable prices. If I do want to save the grips, I slide a long skinny blade under the grips to loosen them, squirt some WD-40 in the gap and work them off. Next, I remove any residual grip glue — we need a clean surface to adhere the heating element. Some acetone or similar works well.
I like this type of installation because it allows me to use whatever handgrip I choose, even the OEM replacements, which are still available from Honda. I've used other style kits, like Oxford, and I've found that they're capable of greater heat output, but this kit supplies all the heat I've ever found necessary and is less expensive. The kit contains everything pictured, including your choice of a toggle or rocker switch. I've chosen the rocker. These kits are available with a handy switch mounting bracket which allows mounting on any 6mm bolt or screw. Despite that bracket being pictured in the eBay listing and my specifically asking the seller if it is, indeed, in the package, my order arrived sans bracket. I want to mount the switch on the clutch perch, so I'll need to make my own. I won't be using that seller again.
In a previous post, I've run a 12-volt supply wire to the headlight fairing area. The sequence I follow is to install the heaters, install the grips, locate the switch and connect the wiring. After testing, I safely tuck everything away.
(Below) These grips have seen their day, so a razor makes removal easy. I seldom reuse old grips as there's such a great variety of aftermarket available for reasonable prices. If I do want to save the grips, I slide a long skinny blade under the grips to loosen them, squirt some WD-40 in the gap and work them off. Next, I remove any residual grip glue — we need a clean surface to adhere the heating element. Some acetone or similar works well.
(Below left) Install the heating element so that the wires exit at about 1 o'clock (throttle) and 11 o'clock (clutch). Be precise, you only get one chance.
(Below right) The clutch side is provided with a length of heat shrink — it provides insulation from the metal handlebar.
(Below right) The clutch side is provided with a length of heat shrink — it provides insulation from the metal handlebar.
I've chosen a set of ProGrip 717 grips.
(Below) My next step is to mount the switch. If you don't mind drilling a hole into fairing panels, that would be a quick and easy solution. But I don't want to do that to these old machines, and I assume that a future owner wouldn't appreciate it either.
I like the switch near the clutch, and there's usually just enough room off the lower clutch mounting bolt. I start with a piece of flat aluminum plate and basically copy the factory bracket which I've used in the past. Here, I'm test fitting the rough bracket before final finishing and paint.
(Below) My next step is to mount the switch. If you don't mind drilling a hole into fairing panels, that would be a quick and easy solution. But I don't want to do that to these old machines, and I assume that a future owner wouldn't appreciate it either.
I like the switch near the clutch, and there's usually just enough room off the lower clutch mounting bolt. I start with a piece of flat aluminum plate and basically copy the factory bracket which I've used in the past. Here, I'm test fitting the rough bracket before final finishing and paint.
(Below left) Next, I make all the wire connections. Note the ground wire located to a handy frame bolt.
(Below right) After testing, all the wires are tidied up. I like to encase the wire bundle in a length of heat shrink.
(Below right) After testing, all the wires are tidied up. I like to encase the wire bundle in a length of heat shrink.
With everything in place, the switch is mounted...and this project is complete.
This modern convenience added to an old bike is a nice touch, and it's completely removable if a future owner desires.
This modern convenience added to an old bike is a nice touch, and it's completely removable if a future owner desires.
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