This tutorial can also be found on the "Maintenance" page
Winter sometimes shows a stubborn streak here in the Hinterlands. The ground may have been bare grass when I awoke this morning but by noon it looked like this outside the shop door...and just kept coming. Seems like a good day for some garage therapy.
Project 23, a 2002 VFR800, is in its reassembly stage, so with the forks, bar risers and handlebars back in place it's a perfect time to install a set of heated grips. That process begins with supplying 12 volts of power to the front of the bike. A quick and easy solution might be to simply tap into a handy wire that has keyed power, like one of the running lights or a tail light. But the grips will draw substantial amps so I want full power available. Another consideration for using a relay might be that an owner may want to add additional power accessories, like a power socket or heated gear connection. And that's why I like to install a keyed relay. I know that a full-amp power source is at hand.
Project 23, a 2002 VFR800, is in its reassembly stage, so with the forks, bar risers and handlebars back in place it's a perfect time to install a set of heated grips. That process begins with supplying 12 volts of power to the front of the bike. A quick and easy solution might be to simply tap into a handy wire that has keyed power, like one of the running lights or a tail light. But the grips will draw substantial amps so I want full power available. Another consideration for using a relay might be that an owner may want to add additional power accessories, like a power socket or heated gear connection. And that's why I like to install a keyed relay. I know that a full-amp power source is at hand.
I begin with the items shown at right, sourced from eBay, Amazon or a local parts store.
I'm using a five-wire relay plus a fused power wire (the red loop thingy). I will use a five- to ten-amp mini fuse.
The wires are used as follows:
Black: 12v power direct from the battery.
White: Ground.
Pink: Power "out."
Yellow: "Trigger" power (activates the relay).
Blue: This wire has an opposite function; it is only "live" (closed circuit) when the key is off. That way power can actually be fed back into the battery. With the key on, it's open, or "dead." That makes it a perfect splice for a battery tender, as it will only work with the key off. A four-wire relay omits this wire.
(Below) Next I'll need a spot to mount the relay. The 800 has a few choices; some bikes don't. I find a nice spot near the rear brake fluid reservoir, mark the mounting hole, drill, and insert a well nut. I can't access the underside, otherwise I could simply use a nut and bolt to secure.
(click on images to enlarge)
I'm using a five-wire relay plus a fused power wire (the red loop thingy). I will use a five- to ten-amp mini fuse.
The wires are used as follows:
Black: 12v power direct from the battery.
White: Ground.
Pink: Power "out."
Yellow: "Trigger" power (activates the relay).
Blue: This wire has an opposite function; it is only "live" (closed circuit) when the key is off. That way power can actually be fed back into the battery. With the key on, it's open, or "dead." That makes it a perfect splice for a battery tender, as it will only work with the key off. A four-wire relay omits this wire.
(Below) Next I'll need a spot to mount the relay. The 800 has a few choices; some bikes don't. I find a nice spot near the rear brake fluid reservoir, mark the mounting hole, drill, and insert a well nut. I can't access the underside, otherwise I could simply use a nut and bolt to secure.
(click on images to enlarge)
(Below) I want to use that reservoir mounting bolt as my ground, so I remove it and grind away any paint, giving a clean, effective electrical ground.
Time to make some connections. Crimp connectors have their place, but I sure feel better when there's some solder involved.
I use my Weller Portasol, a butane powered iron — no wires! I'm also a believer in flux, even though it's old school and not technically necessary.
(Below) I make all the wire connections to the harness and then extend them out to their respective destinations, beginning with the ground...'cause it's closest. Then the fused power lead from the battery positive. Next, I'll select a "trigger" source — this activates the relay when the key is turned on, so any convenient keyed wire will do. I this case I chose the license light wire, and use an easy side-by-side connector. I will later securely tape this connection. Lastly, the power "out" wire is extended...and the underseat portion of the project is complete.
I use my Weller Portasol, a butane powered iron — no wires! I'm also a believer in flux, even though it's old school and not technically necessary.
(Below) I make all the wire connections to the harness and then extend them out to their respective destinations, beginning with the ground...'cause it's closest. Then the fused power lead from the battery positive. Next, I'll select a "trigger" source — this activates the relay when the key is turned on, so any convenient keyed wire will do. I this case I chose the license light wire, and use an easy side-by-side connector. I will later securely tape this connection. Lastly, the power "out" wire is extended...and the underseat portion of the project is complete.
(Below) With all the wiring secured, I run the power wire forward along a convenient path, keeping clear of hot parts or anything that could cause chafing. In this case I followed the brake lines along the top of the left-side frame. Once I exit into the headlight fairing, I'll test that electrons are flowing as intended, and the relay installation is complete.
Next, install and wire a set of heated grips.
Next, install and wire a set of heated grips.
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