Some odd jobs remain to finish up this 2002 VFR800. One can be particularly messy — chain cleaning. Lots of ways to skin this cat, but my go-to is a tool I found many years ago with the catchy name of Chain Zoiler.
This clever device does most of the dirty work for you. It consists of a square-shaped chamber with plastic bristles on all four sides which clamps around the chain. You then tie off the adjustable little rope to a handy spot, like the footpeg, attach a can of WD-40 to the flexible tube, and inject WD-40 while rotating the wheel forward. The device scrubs the crud which drips downward into a catch pan. With the chain degreased, remove the Chain Zoiler and wipe the chain clean with an old rag. I then take the bike out for a short ride to fling the residual WD-40 off, clean the wheel and apply chain lube. Job done.
This clever device does most of the dirty work for you. It consists of a square-shaped chamber with plastic bristles on all four sides which clamps around the chain. You then tie off the adjustable little rope to a handy spot, like the footpeg, attach a can of WD-40 to the flexible tube, and inject WD-40 while rotating the wheel forward. The device scrubs the crud which drips downward into a catch pan. With the chain degreased, remove the Chain Zoiler and wipe the chain clean with an old rag. I then take the bike out for a short ride to fling the residual WD-40 off, clean the wheel and apply chain lube. Job done.
Next up is the dirty and sun-faded chain guard. I'll use my favorite plastic protectant, 303 (throw way your ArmorAll, this mil-spec product is way better).
(Below) But first a thorough cleaning and degreasing — yes, I even clean the underside, I'm that guy.
(Below) This chain guard looks new. With full access, now's the time to detail the swingarm area.
(Below) This bike is in need of new brake pads all around, but I'll want to clean the entire caliper during this service. With the old brake pads removed, I scrub the caliper inside and out with some water-based degreaser and thoroughly rinse. This gives me nice clean pistons — important because the next step is to push the pistons flush with the caliper surface to make way for the new, thicker pads, and I don't want all that corrosive brake crud and road dirt to damage the bores and seals.
(Right) I compress the pistons by slowly pressing them inward using a padded slip-jaw pliers and a length of old paint stir stick. Remember to first empty the brake fluid reservoir to accommodate the fluid being pushed back through the master cylinder.
(Below) Before installing the new pads, I clean, inspect and lube the brake pad pin. The pin is reusable if it's not gouged. A light coating of grease is sufficient. Before and after cleaning.
(Below) Before installing the new pads, I clean, inspect and lube the brake pad pin. The pin is reusable if it's not gouged. A light coating of grease is sufficient. Before and after cleaning.
(Right) These pads were on their last few miles.
(Right)
Don't forget to polish your nuts!
(Right) Finally, a full-body color sanding and machine buffing to bring out the best of this Italian Red beauty. The headlight lenses get the same treatment.
(Below) Ready for her close-up.
Click on image for a hi-resolution photo gallery.
RSS Feed