A few years ago, Patti and I took a riding break in the Nashville, TN area. Part of our tour included the northern part of the Natchez Trace, a 444-mile National Parkway stretching from Nashville to Natchez, MS. Looking for another getaway last week, we checked the weather around the eastern U.S., and found Mississippi to be enjoying a spell of seasonably mild temperature and humidity levels. Off we go.
We based ourselves at Tupelo in northern Mississippi, a comfortable day's trailering away. Next morning, we leave the truck and trailer safely parked at a hotel, climb aboard the Victory Cross Country Tour and make our way to Laurel, MS, about 240 miles, partly on the Trace and finishing on some great two-lane. Our stay for the night is a bed & breakfast in Laurel's historic district, which we soon discover to be located next door to Ben and Erin, hosts of HGTV's "Home Town." As we load up next morning they give a friendly wave, and we're off to the historic river town of Natchez.
We based ourselves at Tupelo in northern Mississippi, a comfortable day's trailering away. Next morning, we leave the truck and trailer safely parked at a hotel, climb aboard the Victory Cross Country Tour and make our way to Laurel, MS, about 240 miles, partly on the Trace and finishing on some great two-lane. Our stay for the night is a bed & breakfast in Laurel's historic district, which we soon discover to be located next door to Ben and Erin, hosts of HGTV's "Home Town." As we load up next morning they give a friendly wave, and we're off to the historic river town of Natchez.
We make our way back to the Trace via secondary roads and small towns. The day is one of five identical weather days — sunny and 82 degrees. Much of the Trace is shaded by massive pines and oaks, allowing the temperature to drop four or five degrees. It's a weekday and the Trace is nearly devoid of traffic so I set the cruise control to 54 MPH for a relaxing ride south (the speed limit is 50). Looking for a butt break, we turn off at a little crossroads called French Camp. There's a small welcome center so we wander in and the nicest lady in the world fills us in on the mission and history of French Camp.
Turns out the place is a large Christian-based boarding school (high school) with a long history. To help support their mission they maintain a small area of historic buildings, a gift shop and...a cafe. What a find — the Council House Cafe is housed in an ancient log structure with a large eating deck. Most of the tables are full; this place must somehow be a local hot spot in the middle of nowhere. We enjoy a double-deck BLT, the finest pickle I've ever had along with the best honey mustard in the land. But the icing on the cake, so to speak, is the genuine Mississippi Mud Pie...with ice cream, of course. If you ever find yourself anywhere near French Camp, MS...y'all need to git yerself to this place. The mid pie was so good I forgot to take a photo, just know that it filled a plate.
Arriving at Natchez, I decide to cross the river bridge to grab a photo op on the Louisiana side. Ten years ago I was making my way back from a year's working stint in Hawaii with my new-to-me Yamaha TDM850 in tow. I took a break under the twin bridges and snapped a photo....the trees have grown taller but it's just as pretty.
Arriving at Natchez, I decide to cross the river bridge to grab a photo op on the Louisiana side. Ten years ago I was making my way back from a year's working stint in Hawaii with my new-to-me Yamaha TDM850 in tow. I took a break under the twin bridges and snapped a photo....the trees have grown taller but it's just as pretty.
Our stay tonight would be at the Clermont Bluffs Bed & Breakfast just north of downtown Natchez, situated high above the mighty Mississippi with a view to die for. We hiked into town for BBQ ribs at the Pig Out Inn followed by desert at the Cotton Alley Cafe.
This town reeks of well-preserved history. The preservation is due in large part to the fact that during the Civil War the town remained loyal to the Union, and so was spared the fate of many prominent towns and cities in the south, which were ransacked and burned by both sides in the conflict. Historic buildings and the many antebellum mansions are now tourist attractions. The town was also a trading center, attracting average folks from the Ohio River valley who would build large rafts to float their goods down the Ohio and Mississippi rivers to Natchez, where they would sell everything, including the raft's logs, party awhile, then make their way back home via an old Choctaw and Chickasaw Indian trail, which would eventually become known as the Natchez Trace.
As a Union stronghold, after the war Natchez became one of the many sights of a National Cemetery, and the Clermont happens to be situated adjacent to the Natchez National Cemetery. Our National Cemeteries are solemn but beautiful and moving places, testament to the ultimate waste of the Civil War — some 700,000 Americans killed by one another. The original interment at Natchez National Cemetery was 3075, of which only 305 were known, the others simply marked as "Unknown Soldier." I took a long and quiet early morning walk alone among the white marble headstones as the sun rose on another beautiful day along the Mississippi.
This town reeks of well-preserved history. The preservation is due in large part to the fact that during the Civil War the town remained loyal to the Union, and so was spared the fate of many prominent towns and cities in the south, which were ransacked and burned by both sides in the conflict. Historic buildings and the many antebellum mansions are now tourist attractions. The town was also a trading center, attracting average folks from the Ohio River valley who would build large rafts to float their goods down the Ohio and Mississippi rivers to Natchez, where they would sell everything, including the raft's logs, party awhile, then make their way back home via an old Choctaw and Chickasaw Indian trail, which would eventually become known as the Natchez Trace.
As a Union stronghold, after the war Natchez became one of the many sights of a National Cemetery, and the Clermont happens to be situated adjacent to the Natchez National Cemetery. Our National Cemeteries are solemn but beautiful and moving places, testament to the ultimate waste of the Civil War — some 700,000 Americans killed by one another. The original interment at Natchez National Cemetery was 3075, of which only 305 were known, the others simply marked as "Unknown Soldier." I took a long and quiet early morning walk alone among the white marble headstones as the sun rose on another beautiful day along the Mississippi.
After another fine breakfast we are loaded and moving north to Tupelo — 260 miles on the Trace today. With no reason to rush our final day on the bike, we take our time, stopping at most of the many historical markers plus coffee at French Camp.
At day's end we load the bike on the trailer, get a refreshing swim in the hotel pool, and grab some Pizza and beer out. The next day takes us back to Illinois and home.
We decide that this ride's theme was "riding into history." If you appreciate history, good food, great people and a relaxing ride on one of America's truly great roads, the Natchez Trace is waiting.
At day's end we load the bike on the trailer, get a refreshing swim in the hotel pool, and grab some Pizza and beer out. The next day takes us back to Illinois and home.
We decide that this ride's theme was "riding into history." If you appreciate history, good food, great people and a relaxing ride on one of America's truly great roads, the Natchez Trace is waiting.
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