One of the tasks facing us on Project 30 is the replacement of the left mid-fairing decal. Chris is replacing the original fairing with a nicer example, but which was originally mounted on a 700cc model. While the "750" designation was displayed on the 750s, there was no numbering on the 700 version. As we can see, someone went to the trouble of adding "700" lettering to this fairing. In any case, we're replacing it with a reproduction 750 decal.

(Below) We begin with removing the old decal, noting that the goal is to preserve the fairing's finish which will be clearcoated once the proper decal is in place. I cover this technique on the "Maintenance" page (Decal Removal - No Mar), and the first step is to gently heat the decal and start the removal by scraping a corner with a fresh plastic razor. Continue heating, peeling and scraping till the entire decal is removed, leaving behind the remaining adhesive.
(click on an image to enlarge)

(Below) I remove the adhesive with a combination of 3M Adhesive Cleaner, plastic scraper, non-scuff pad and a final wipe of cleaner on a fresh paper towel till we're left with a spotless fairing panel. The process took me about 30 minutes to this point.

My next step is an overall sanding with 1500-grit wet/dry to remove paint scuffs and imperfections (as much as possible), and prepare the surface for clearcoat.

Finally, I apply the decal...but that's a discussion for another time.

(Below) The finished product, ready for mounting!

I've recently completed brake systems rebuilding on projects 29 and 30, including front and clutch masters and all calipers. Years ago I once made the mistake of assembling the front outboard brake pads at a cocked angle, which causes brake drag and uneven wear on the pad. Here's how to avoid that mistake.

In the photo to the right I've pointed out the two tiny tangs that locate those outboard pads. During assembly be sure to capture the pads within the tangs, then secure with the slider pins. A small but important detail.

Obviously, those tangs locate to the outboard side of the calipers; to assemble the rear caliper spring, first insert the small tab into its locating hole (right photo)........

....then press downward to secure (right).

Next, insert the inboard pad, press downward slightly to pass the slider pins through the pad's locating holes, and repeat for the outer pad.

(I'm showing the '86-87 here)

​Mistakes are not acceptable when it comes to our brake systems, so I proceed carefully, double-checking my work as I progress.

What: 1995 VFR750F
Where: Bayville, New Jersey
Why: Pristine, low miles
Price: $3000

​This kind of find is soooo tempting. Original look, nicely appointed, low miles, gleaming original condition....

Located along the Atlantic seaboard, this minty '95 checks all the boxes for the carbureted 4th-gen, short of some suspension magic. "Runs as good as it looks," the ad reads. Some nice details include the Staintune muffler, rear fender eliminator, aftermarket seat plus original, including the cowl. No word on whether the original muffler and rear fender are included, but they're not hard to locate in the online world. I've owned two of this generation, and I have to say they're my favorite for racking up the miles with performance and style. The caretaker of this VFR will never need apologize for his or her choice of motorbike.
(click on the dash photo and look closely — those pristine details give a great indication of what you're getting)