This past week I finally fulfilled a glaring omission in my riding history — experiencing a VFR in the Blue Ridge Mountains on a few of the more exciting and famous roads that America has to offer. I've sampled the area in the past on a Suzuki V-Strom 1000, Honda ST1300, our Victory tourer, even a rental Mustang convertible…but never on a VFR.
This opportunity came about when reader Al Bleyenberg contacted me early this summer with some questions about his recently acquired 1993 VFR750. During our conversations I mentioned that I was completing my own '93 — one thing led to another and he graciously invited me to join him and his small riding group on their annual Blue Ridge outing. "Yes."
L. to R.: Rick (Moto Guzzi Griso). myself ('93 VFR), Al ('93 VFR), John (Suzuki DR650)
The guys base themselves at the Lodge At Tellico in the little town of Tellico Plains, TN. The Lodge is a moto-centric operation run by motorcyclists Bryan and Catherine and consists of 16 updated cabin-style rooms, impeccably clean, with rocking chairs on your porch. There's a large secure garage for your bike (photo, right) and parking areas for your truck and trailer if necessary.
Tellico Plains is strategically located at the western terminus of the Cherohala Skyway, a National Scenic Byway and 43-mile piece of motorcycling bliss. This ride is a bucket list item for anyone who treasures roads for their character and personality. All the best roads seem to have names, as is fitting for those of us who personify them, dreaming of our chance to experience them.
The Cherohala lies a bit south of one of the more infamous roads in the world, Tail of the Dragon, aka Deals Gap or simply TN/NC 129. But the area boasts seemingly endless lesser-known backroads, most featuring table-top smooth asphalt along with curves, charm, scenery and lots of little cafes with great food. Did I mention the friendly locals? It's hard to take a wrong turn in these parts.
Tellico Plains is strategically located at the western terminus of the Cherohala Skyway, a National Scenic Byway and 43-mile piece of motorcycling bliss. This ride is a bucket list item for anyone who treasures roads for their character and personality. All the best roads seem to have names, as is fitting for those of us who personify them, dreaming of our chance to experience them.
The Cherohala lies a bit south of one of the more infamous roads in the world, Tail of the Dragon, aka Deals Gap or simply TN/NC 129. But the area boasts seemingly endless lesser-known backroads, most featuring table-top smooth asphalt along with curves, charm, scenery and lots of little cafes with great food. Did I mention the friendly locals? It's hard to take a wrong turn in these parts.
Lake Ocoee. Showing the "blue" in Blue Ridge, this is a typical mountain view.
My three days with the group began with an awesome collection of back roads local to the area, southwest out of Tellico Plains with a side trip up into the Chilhowee Recreation Area and a couple of scenic overlooks, including the Sugarloaf Mountain overlook (above). Back down along the lake, then southeast to Ducktown, joining Hwy 68 which would lead us home to the Lodge. Hwy 68 is, in itself, a beautiful and worthy ride. Only about 115 miles on this day, but with breakfast, lunch and full menu of twisties and scenery, it made for a great first day. I'll vote for quality miles over quantity any day.
I also found it relaxing to play the "I don't know the area" card and just sit back in the group to follow the others' lead, Al's V4 Yoshimura music occasionally making it through my earplugs.
I also found it relaxing to play the "I don't know the area" card and just sit back in the group to follow the others' lead, Al's V4 Yoshimura music occasionally making it through my earplugs.
Day two would find us having breakfast in town at the awesome Tellico Grains Bakery, a place so delicious we would need to repeat the experience the next morning. Then northbound on Hwy 360, eventually crossing the Little Tennessee river, then riding alongside it on Hwys 72 & 129…yes, that 129, which would eventually morph into the Dragon (above and lead photo). After a short stop at an early overlook, we headed eastbound to challenge all 318 curves (some more elegantly than others) with a quick stop at the resort to calm the nerves and grab the obligatory dragon sticker. Then a short run south to the Historic Tapoco Lodge Resort for a picture perfect lunch alongside the babbling Halfmile Branch River (below). Just north of the Lodge we pass the Cheoah Dam, site of Harrison Ford's jump scene in "The Fugitive."
From there we would logically return via the Cherohala Skyway, but putting a temporary damper on the whole trip, the Cherohala was officially closed for repairs to a washout near the western end — more on that tomorrow. So, our best option was to return via the Dragon (damn!) which we grudgingly accomplished. At the western end of the Dragon we took a scenic right turn up the narrow but engaging Happy Valley Road, a steady climb, eventually intersecting with the Foothills Parkway. Part way up the mountain, Al's VFR decided the steady power and lower speeds were more than the cooling system was prepared for, necessitating an unplanned roadside hot-wiring of the radiator fan. No worries, we were soon enjoying a downhill run on the fantastic Foothills Parkway, replete with perfect asphalt and sweeping turns. A gorgeous road, returning us to Hwy 129 and home.
Day three, where John and Rick were determined to find a way onto the Cherohala Skyway. Scouring their digital maps a potential backdoor route was found and we embarked on an exploration of 1 1/2-lane squiggly local roads well-suited to John's dual sport, thankfully somewhat paved, steadily climbing till we literally bumped into the Skyway at Miller Chapel Road on the far side of the washout. Eastbound from there we had unobstructed sailing with the road mostly devoid of traffic — after all, it was officially closed.
Taking a break in the clouds on the Cherohala Skyway
The Dragon may get all the press, but the pristine, entertaining Cherohala is the gem of the southern Blue Ridge, at least in my limited experience — especially on this postcard perfect day. Rick was leading on the Griso and seemed to want to play, so Al graciously motioned me ahead and off we went into the zone. I don't possess the vocabulary to describe how this road was seemingly designed for motorcycles, its rising and falling twists encouraging perfect harmony with two-wheeled machines like ours. The road can be a killer in the winter months, and it's sometimes cold and misty at the summit…but not on this day.
After lunch in Robbinsville, NC, there was no question that we would make our return via the Skyway, where the guys encouraged me to take the lead for my final run of the trip. It was surely the personal highpoint of my time with the group.
Back at the Lodge, the VFRs were loaded onto their trailers, we said our goodbyes, and Al and I departed at oh-dark-thirty the next morning, me arriving home in time for dinner.
I don't think I realized how much I needed this trip. I haven't taken a solo ride in I don't know how many years, and I'd forgotten how important it is to include an occasional motorbike mental health break in our lives. And, to be honest with myself, at 72 I don't know what the future will allow in any case. My VFR was the perfect companion for this tour, and it performed flawlessly, making me look much better than my waning skills allow. It received a well-earned bath and a few private words alone in the garage when we were back home. I'm grateful for the opportunity to still play with motorcycles and to the guys for graciously welcoming a new guy into their group. I hope we meet again.
Back at the Lodge, the VFRs were loaded onto their trailers, we said our goodbyes, and Al and I departed at oh-dark-thirty the next morning, me arriving home in time for dinner.
I don't think I realized how much I needed this trip. I haven't taken a solo ride in I don't know how many years, and I'd forgotten how important it is to include an occasional motorbike mental health break in our lives. And, to be honest with myself, at 72 I don't know what the future will allow in any case. My VFR was the perfect companion for this tour, and it performed flawlessly, making me look much better than my waning skills allow. It received a well-earned bath and a few private words alone in the garage when we were back home. I'm grateful for the opportunity to still play with motorcycles and to the guys for graciously welcoming a new guy into their group. I hope we meet again.
The Dragon photos were taken by professional-grade photographers strategically set up at corners on the Dragon. You can later order digital hi-resolution copies for $7 and $8 each. A Google search will get you more information.
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