Progress continues on Project 17. With valve clearances checked and cylinder compression verified, it's time to clean, inspect, assemble and install the carburetors.
I first completely disassemble the components, scrub the carb set in the sink with degreaser and hot water rinse, then give the small parts a dunk in the ultrasonic cleaner. All the passageways are given a blast with compressed air and verified clear. As a matter of course I replace the fuel tube o-rings and fuel lines (see the Maintenance page for a detailed tutorial).
I first completely disassemble the components, scrub the carb set in the sink with degreaser and hot water rinse, then give the small parts a dunk in the ultrasonic cleaner. All the passageways are given a blast with compressed air and verified clear. As a matter of course I replace the fuel tube o-rings and fuel lines (see the Maintenance page for a detailed tutorial).
(Right) This carb set was pretty grungy on the outside, but surprisingly clean inside. Someone had replaced the float bowl screws with generic allen screws which have since acquired a lovely rust patina.
(Right) In order to remove the pilot screw adjusters, the factory caps need to be removed. This is made easier by applying gentle heat from a small torch while gently pulling on the cap till it comes off. The caps are an emissions thing (to prevent owner adjustments) and don't need to be reinstalled unless desired. The screwdriver groove will have some grunge in it so clear that out with a small blade.
(Below) Turn out the screw, being very careful to avoid losing the spring, washer and o-ring inside — these little parts are NLA from Honda, though I have sourced replacements for the o-ring and metal washer. I use a small nail with a bent tip to dig for the washer and o-ring if they're left stuck inside the hole.
(Below) Turn out the screw, being very careful to avoid losing the spring, washer and o-ring inside — these little parts are NLA from Honda, though I have sourced replacements for the o-ring and metal washer. I use a small nail with a bent tip to dig for the washer and o-ring if they're left stuck inside the hole.
(Right) This needle is stock OEM, which tells me that no jet kit was installed in this carb set.
(Below) After reassembly, the five California-spec vent tubes will need to be capped. I source rubber (not cheap plastic) caps from NAPA; four 3/16" and one 7/32". Install them using the original OEM spring clamps.
(click on an image to enlarge)
(click on an image to enlarge)
(Below) An additional aspect of California-spec bikes is the method of fuel tank venting. Instead of venting through the filler cap the CA bikes vent through a tube in the underside of the fuel tank. DON'T PLUG THIS VENT. Run an open hose downward in the front area of the frame and terminate somewhere that fuel vapors won't ignite on a hot engine part.
Ready for installation!
Ready for installation!
RSS Feed