My trials and tribulations with VFR projects have included lots of fuel tanks in varying states of...ahh...despair. They're all the same relative age, so their condition is a reflection of how they've been cared for over the decades. I've come across tanks which look great on the ouside but heavily rusted internally, and just the opposite. But, it's like a Realtor likes to say about waterfront property, "they ain't makin' any more," so these tanks are worth saving, and that's where tank sealant comes in.

My choice for do-it-yourself tank sealant is Caswell"s motorcycle sealing kit. This kit runs $40 for clear and $55 for colored. Both are a 2-part epoxy with some pretty fancy chemists' terms associated with it (i.e. "phenol novolac is more thixotropic") but the bottom line is that Caswell claims it sticks better, even to uneven rusty surfaces and is resistant to anything short of a nuclear detonation. It will bridge and seal up actual gaps and is pretty easy to work with. Pictured above is another product I like to use on tanks with a salvageable exterior finish; Seal Mask. This pink liquid brushes on the painted finish and protects during the cleaning and application process. Pretty amazing stuff, 'cause it washes off with only clear water when finished. Caswell provides written instructions with the kit and on their website.

If the paint is to be saved, I first brush on one or two coats of Seal Mask, which dries in about 30 minutes to a thick plastic film. Caswell also suggests taping plastic and aluminum foil over the tank, but I've not found that necessary if you're careful. Or, use that approach in lieu of Seal Mask.

Our first task is to prep the inside of the tank as best we can. Remove the petcock; you'll need to "back blow" compressed air through the openings after sealing. I install the lower fuel level sensor with its rubber gasket and tape the top filler hole or just close the filler if it's still in place. Using acetone, I slosh about a pint of it around the interior with a double handful of small drywall screws, drain out the bottom hole, and repeat as needed.

This photo shows what typically comes out of a rusty tank. The putrid smell of rancid gas can permeate a garage for a few days — be warned. When I'm happy with the cleaning operation I open up both holes and allow the tank to completely dry for a couple of days.

Next we need to mix the 2-part epoxy in a plastic container. Working time is dependent on air temperature, but basically be ready to pour into the tank immediately after mixing.

Shown here is the clear sealant.

Pour the very thick mixture into the filler opening (with the bottom opening taped over), tape the filler opening, and slowly rotate the tank to distribute on all surfaces. When I'm satisfied that everything's coated, uncover the lower hole and prop the tank level allowing it to drain for a couple of hours. I tape down some plastic, like a grocery bag, under the the opening and allow the drained glob to solidify on it. Immediately after beginning the drain operation blow compressed air into the fuel pickup tubes (at the petcock) to clear potentially clogged pickup screens inside the tank — don't skip this step. After about an hour, I'll take a sharp blade and cut off any drips around the drain hole. Caswell suggests allowing the tank to sit a few days undisturbed to cure the epoxy.

Here's a look at a cured tank interior, in grey. 

After curing, peel away the Seal Mask, or just clean with water. Reassemble your refurbished fuel tank and add gas.

Job done!

Internal circlips are simple and effective little devices, but they do require a special tool to install and remove.

Over the years I've struggled with dirty, stubborn, corroded little clips in my bikes' master cylinders and forks using "universal" circlip pliers...until I discovered these bent-tip pliers from K&L. I now consider them a must-have in my tool collection.

About $27 from various eBay sellers.

Some time ago an astute reader suggested that it would be helpful if I could categorize some of the tips and maintenance projects I've covered over the past two and a half years. Good idea, so I've created an additional page called "Maintenance" where I'll include anything that might help y'all find some of that information.

I've begun adding some items, which will continue as time permits. I hope this is a useful change.

I first heard about Deftone Cycles on RareSportBikesForSale (.com). This is a shop located in Cleveland, Ohio who have found a niche importing grey market bikes from Japan. Their trick is to offer their buyers a turnkey transaction; the bikes are imported, the paperwork sorted and a valid U.S. title provided.

Deftone has a steady stream of desirable JDM models passing through their doors. Case in point: this pristine RC30. It's a rare, first year, 1987 JDM model with distinctive small twin headlights, showing 23,299 miles. It was offered at $28,000 or best offer and was snatched up as soon as it hit the market, so the assumption is that the selling price was at or very near the asking.

Lots of good reviews from past customers. I can't locate a website, but their Facebook page is pretty active. If you're in the market for something unique, Greg at Deftone is your guy. (click on images below for larger view)

What: 1995 VFR750F
Where: Mill Creek, Washington (Seattle/Everett)
Why: Awesome rebuild for a bargain
Price: $2600 OBO
UPDATE: SOLD
Up front, this bike has a rebuilt title. If that's not an automatic deal-breaker for you, then read on. Our seller, a professional painter, has refurbished this bike from the ground up, finishing with a coat of gleaming black paint and retro white wheels. Every system has been dealt with — read his ad for a comprehensive list. The bike's been dyno'd and there's a cache of spares, some luggage and even a parts bike available.

"I've poured blood, sweat and countless paychecks into this bike."  I know the feeling, brother.

Brilliance doesn't guarantee success in the real world, and the Honda VFR1200F Interceptor is a perfect example. Available in this country from 2010-13, this capable and ferociously powerful sport tourer never found the number of buyers the marketers had hoped for. The big V4 lives on in the VFR1200X adventure-syled bike, which is also struggling to find its niche in our evolving marketplace. All that doesn't take away from the fact that the VFR1200 Interceptor is a great motorbike and an even greater bargain these days. Here we have two current examples listed on eBay.

First up is the ubiquitous 2010 model without DCT and in what appears to be completely original trim with no mods. Available at a H-D dealer in Long Branch, NJ, showing 19,222 miles, and offered for only $4500.

The seller's description is sparse, but this bike is way out of their comfort zone, which probably helps explain the low asking price. I don't see any damage in the photos. This one looks like a great candidate for a bargain VFR12.

Our next offering is a less than perfect 2010 example with 45,000 miles, some cosmetic tip-over damage, a carbon fiber Two Brothers slip-on pipe and "standard" transmission. It looks to be in otherwise stock configuration and has a good maintenance history. Located in St. Augustine, FL, it's offered for only $3950 or make offer.

This would make a great daily rider and that pipe would provide all that beautiful V4 music.

I'm definitely keeping busy as the winter season looms. In the shop are two '86 VFR projects, 13 & 16, along with my new Triumph which is getting suspension updates front & rear. Project 13 is shown below on the rack. This 750 is getting a mechanical makeover and will receive a full set of original red/white/blue body panels. I'm also refurbishing a set of twin SuperTrapp mufflers, but that's a story for another time.

A rebuilt carb rack is mounted along with the detailed radiator. The engine side covers have been powder coated in textured bronze. The front forks have been flushed, Progressive springs fitted, their black paint refurbished, and everything mounted up with a fresh Bridgestone BT45.

At the rear I've also fitted a BT45 along with a new set of chain & sprockets, and a 43-tooth driven sprocket in place of the original 45-tooth size. I do this to lower the RPM and give each gear a bit more time to wind up the scale, making that beautiful V4 music a little more sweet. And I just prefer taller gearing.

The polished swingarm is looking pretty bling, and the wheels on this bike are just shy of perfect. I suspect that they may have been repainted at some point in their life, but the color and quality is so good that it's hard to tell for sure. The chain adjuster end caps have been sanded and polished, but I still need to source some replacement nuts — just for looks. Since these pictures were taken the subframe has been mounted along with the refurbished chain guard. 

At the front, I've been busy with some detailing and the addition of GenMar bar risers. The steering head bearings were also updated with All Balls tapered bearings.

The handlebars and upper triple tree were in pretty rough shape, cosmetically, so they were stripped of clearcoat, sanded, and hand polished. I'd come across the bar risers some time ago on eBay, so I thought I'd give 'em a try on Project 13. A light polishing got the aluminum looking spiff and the mounting is pretty simple — just drop them in place before bolting on the handlebars. The19mm (3/4") rise will make a noticeable difference in forward lean but requires no additional modifications, i.e. brake line length. GenMar provides an aluminum cap and black plastic cover, but they didn't quite fit over the fork nut, so I left them off and just fitted the original little black air valve cover. I'm sure their engineering is sound, but for a little peace of mind, I raised the fork legs in the triple trees an additional 3mm for a little more clamping purchase.

I always replace the small coolant hoses on my projects — the two large radiator hoses are NLA from Honda, and pricey from Samco. But the small one (two for '90-on) under the carbs and the short piece near the kickstand can be sourced from Amazon. Here I'm replacing the lower hose with a section cut from a 1-meter length of 22mm (7/8") straight silicone hose. 
(click on the image for the Amazon link) >>

My new ARES hose tool helped greatly here (see the post below for details). This little guy leads a hard life — heat, oil, road grime and neglect. It's no picnic to get at and remove, but I think it's important, and now it's good for another 30 years.

ARES Hose Removal Tool

Here's a better idea, and for only $7.12. When I come upon a coolant hose that has likely been in place for 20 or 30 years, it's not going to like being disturbed. Fossilized by corrosion, it's a recipe for busted knuckles and involuntary profanity. This tool has just the right curves to work its way under the hose, breaking it loose enough to be pulled off by hand.

In the photo below I'm using it to remove a short section of hose on an '86 VFR which is all but impossible to work off without a tool like this (see the next post).

At our Thanksgiving table we always pause for a quick remembrance of what we're thankful for during the previous year. At the same time I always give a silent thanks for the privilege of living in the amazing time that we do, a period in human history that allows us the technology and freedom to enjoy the many choices of entertainment and sport available to us, including motorcycling.

As societies become more safety and environmentally conscious, the fact that we still have the privilege of owning and riding two-wheeled machines with minimal regulatory interference should be appreciated. That those machines are so varied, plentiful and affordable is equally amazing, at least to me.

And then there's the roads. I'm a roadie — I love roads. I find beauty, adventure and even personality in the incredible web of tarmac that we've built throughout the world. When motorcyclists speak of epic journeys it's often referenced by road names and numbers, as if they're living beings. "Have you done the PCH, the Natchez Trace, the Cherehala, the Twisted Sisters, the Pig Trail, the Beartooth.....?" Personally, my two-wheeled destinations are roads, not places. And I'm thankful for every one of them.

What: 1992 NR
Where: Shepherds Bush, UK
Why: A rare chance to acquire an NR
Price: Buy It Now of $75,600

The NR was produced only for the 1992 model year, and was a bit of exotica built to showcase Honda's engineering and manufacturing prowess...and to retrieve a tiny bit of the ocean of yen it took to develop the oval piston technology, which began years earlier with their ultimately unsuccessful NR500 Gran Prix racing efforts.

With an original MSRP of $50,000 these bikes have always been display queens, and rising values will further serve to keep them off the road (if a road-going bike was ever the intention). The NRs seldom change hands (publicly) so this opportunity will be taken seriously by collectors worldwide. This bike has a little bit of wear and tear to show for its 5000 miles, so the asking price may be a little steep, along with the expense and potential tangled web of importing it. It's available at a dealer in England who's importing it from Japan.
Here's a YouTube video from MCN of an NR being ridden as it hits 262 kph, or 163 mph: