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Fill 'er Up...With Vinegar

4/29/2020

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After sitting unused for ten years, Project 28 came to me with a moderate amount of surface rusting on the fuel tank interior. As they say, rust never sleeps, so for the future health of this tank I want to remove the rust as best I can.

There's lots of techniques, both commercial and home-brewed, but my first go at this is always a good vinegar soak. White vinegar is cheap, easily available and is a fairly mild acidic (5-20%) so it won't hurt painted or rubber items, as long as it's wiped clean and not allowed to sit for long periods. If possible, I source white vinegar as opposed to distilled white vinegar, as the non-distilled is stronger, but during these days of thinly-stocked store shelves I was only able to find the quantity I needed (5 gallons) in distilled; $1.79 per gallon. I read on the interwebs that you can fortify the acidic strength by adding a cup of salt per gallon, so I gave that a try. I have no way of knowing if it helps, but I had good results in any case.

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After plugging the fuel line outlet, I sit the tank in a large tub to catch any potential leaks or overflow, fill to the top, close the filler cap (or tape the filler opening, if the cap is removed) and...wait. Being a mild acid, vinegar will be slower-acting than more aggressive acids, so it may need a few days of soaking.

Each day I peek inside the filler with a flashlight til it's evident that the rust has dissolved. The drained vinegar can be reused or simply discarded down the drain.



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I leave about a gallon of vinegar in the tank, then add a few handfuls of something loose to help scrub the remaining rust loose. I use short drywall screws, nuts, bolts or a length of light chain. Next comes my upper body workout — hold the tank and agitate in every direction. Then drain into a large tub (photo right) through the fuel sender hole.

Next, shake the screws out. TIP: By resting the tank on its back, any remaining items can be retrieved through the fuel sender hole with a magnet. Then a thorough flush with the garden hose through the top and bottom openings till the water runs clear. At this point I take the opportunity to blow-back through the fuel petcock to clear the lines.

Finally, to prevent flash rusting of the bare metal, I add some sort of oil-based coating. I like Marvel Mystery Oil, cylinder fogging spray or WD-40. Anything to displace the remaining water and coat the bare interior metal.

Wipe the exterior, install the sender with a fresh o-ring gasket, and this tank is ready to use.


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And to preserve my nice, fresh tank in the face of today's alcohol-laced gasoline, I religiously use a fuel treatment. My favorite is Star Tron. Why? 'Cause it will stabilize fuel for two years (!) and it will disperse water — did you know that ethanol is hygroscopic? That's science-speak for its tendency to absorb water, and water mixed with fuel is never a good thing. Water is heavier than gas, so if allowed to separate from fuel, it sinks to the bottom of the tank, creating rust, slowly chewing a hole in your fuel tank. Star Tron even helps dissolve gummed and varnished deposits in your fuel system.

There's other treatments out there, like Sta-Bil, but this stuff works; it's cheap, it's available at Walmart, and all you need is an ounce added to your bike's tank to afford you peace of mind while your bike waits contentedly in its corner of the garage. Please. Use. This. Stuff.

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