I've begun prepping an entire set of bodywork and fuel tank for a grand experiment for Project 13. My plan is to have a complete hydrographic (film dip) application in place of repainting. I haven't decided on the final pattern I'll use, but the first step in this process is the same for any paint job — strip the old decals. This can be accomplished with machine sanding but that's gonna' leave a mark on the plastic parts, so I choose finesse over brute force.
I first determine if the decal has been clearcoated. If so, I go around the edge of the decal with a palm sander to provide a clean edge. After a gentle application from the heat gun on low setting, I begin scraping with a fresh plastic razor blade. Unlike a steel razor, the plastic blade won't gouge the plastic. I can only progress about one to two inches before needing more heat — we just need the decal warmed so proceed carefully, the ABS can deform with too much heat.
I first determine if the decal has been clearcoated. If so, I go around the edge of the decal with a palm sander to provide a clean edge. After a gentle application from the heat gun on low setting, I begin scraping with a fresh plastic razor blade. Unlike a steel razor, the plastic blade won't gouge the plastic. I can only progress about one to two inches before needing more heat — we just need the decal warmed so proceed carefully, the ABS can deform with too much heat.
Sometimes the adhesive will remove almost completely, but more likely most will be left behind, as pictured here.
Not a problem. Using a strip of non-scuff kitchen pad, I soak a section of adhesive with 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner for about 30 seconds and gently scrape the residue with a fresh plastic blade (I buy them in packs of 100). Repeat as necessary and finish with a final wipe with a paper towel wetted with adhesive cleaner.
(click on an image to enlarge)
Not a problem. Using a strip of non-scuff kitchen pad, I soak a section of adhesive with 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner for about 30 seconds and gently scrape the residue with a fresh plastic blade (I buy them in packs of 100). Repeat as necessary and finish with a final wipe with a paper towel wetted with adhesive cleaner.
(click on an image to enlarge)
We're left with a nice clean surface, but with a distinct outline where the clearcoat edge was. This needs to be removed or it will show under the new paint, or film in this case.
My final step is a general sanding of the entire piece in preparation for paint. For this I use wet-dry 320-grit paper with a little extra attention to the decal outline. The film dip technician will prime and apply the appropriate base coat color as part of his service, so like any painter, he needs these pieces delivered ready for paint. This cowl took about 30 minutes to this point and I'll spend four or five hours removing all the bike's decals. From here I'll deal with any plastic repair and/or bodywork required.
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