Assembly continues on Project 42. While the instrument assembly was in good mechanical condition, the cosmetics required some attention. The "square" instruments on this 1986 VFR750 won't make sense to us in the U.S. as that model would have been fitted with round-faced gauges. But this is a UK transplant and so we have this dark blue square-face assembly, which would make its U.S. appearance with the '86-87 700cc F2 model.
The issues here were that the nacelle was stained and faded over the years, and the lens was beginning to cloud. After disassembly, I was able to gently polish out both with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. I had to be very careful with the nacelle as each pass would leave blue color on the cloth, meaning I was removing paint, but I eventually got it back to a beautiful gloss finish. The lens clouding turned out to be mostly on the inside surface which also responded well. I finished with a ceramic polish on those surfaces and, after a general cleaning of the rest of the assembly including the fuse connections, it was ready for installation.
The issues here were that the nacelle was stained and faded over the years, and the lens was beginning to cloud. After disassembly, I was able to gently polish out both with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. I had to be very careful with the nacelle as each pass would leave blue color on the cloth, meaning I was removing paint, but I eventually got it back to a beautiful gloss finish. The lens clouding turned out to be mostly on the inside surface which also responded well. I finished with a ceramic polish on those surfaces and, after a general cleaning of the rest of the assembly including the fuse connections, it was ready for installation.
(Below) When I removed the instrument assembly I disconnected all the wiring connections living behind the headlight fairing. I do this to inspect, clean and "exercise" the brass connectors. While I've done this many times, I still take photos beforehand as a reference during reassembly and refer to the FSM where I discovered that one of the harness bundles had been routed incorrectly on this bike. Honda really helps out here as the connections can only fit with their mate, whether by shape or color. I apply dielectric grease to the connectors and take my time with routing, as I don't want to risk any handlebar binding or chafing. With all the wiring in place I check the handlebar movement and connect the battery to ensure the electrons are flowing correctly.
Some of those wire connections originate from the handlebar switch assemblies. I always open these up to inspect for stuff like mud dauber nests or sticky goo from years of mixing dirt and grease.
One sign of your assemblies needing cleaning is a sluggish turn signal switch, which this bike had. I spray the insides with aerosol electronic cleaner and re-lubricate with dabs of silicone grease, where appropriate.
Remount the assemblies, route the wires and cables, and call these small tasks finished.
One sign of your assemblies needing cleaning is a sluggish turn signal switch, which this bike had. I spray the insides with aerosol electronic cleaner and re-lubricate with dabs of silicone grease, where appropriate.
Remount the assemblies, route the wires and cables, and call these small tasks finished.
However, before I can think about installing the headlight fairing, I need to address the oil cooler fins. Just like the radiator, I'll carefully straighten the delicate fins as best I can using a small straight-blade screwdriver and dental pick. To clean, the radiators are gently scrubbed with a water-based degreaser and soft bristle brush. Aluminum wheel spray cleaner works well also. Rinse well.
Next, I'll deal with the brake components.
Next, I'll deal with the brake components.
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