I came across this unique creature via motoridersuniverse; an outrageous custom build by Mociklet Customs. It's based upon a 3d-gen VFR750 and this thing has been stripped to the bone, sporting motocross-style handlebars and knobby's. I'm not sure about its off-road prowess considering the limited travel suspension, but the visual impact is undeniable. You won't see another like it at the local bike night! From the same webpage comes this tracker-style custom, based upon a 1985 VFR400. Again, this high-revving little sport bike would be ill-suited to its transformation, but you can't fault the builder's unique vision. This one comes from Herencia, a custom shop in Argentina and it basically appears to be a stripped bike with some very raw fabricated aluminum bodywork and custom-built exhaust. Looks like a fun ride!
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Some time ago, reader Alexander from Scotland contacted me to order some carb parts for a new project he'd acquired. He also included this video of the bike struggling to run with the worst carb leak I've personally seen. I'm pleased to report that after a thorough cleaning and fresh seals, Alexander's 1990 VFR750 is leak free. Our old Hondas were treated to an impressive level of fit & finish…for their time. Still, there's a few areas where the factory didn't make the extra effort, one of which are the foot levers. Shown here is a typical example; a 2d-gen brake lever. They're actually elegant cast aluminum pieces, but were left with a crude casting line running the perimeter. With some effort, we can finish the job. I begin with a thorough cleaning and then attack the casting line with a selection of Dremel sanding attachments (below). Next, I hand sand with increasingly finer grades of wet sandpaper, beginning with 320 grit. When I'm happy with my progress, I decide whether to paint or polish. For paint, I've had these powder coated or simply prime/paint/clearcoat with a quality spray, like Dupli-Color engine paint. For a mirror-like finish, I polish with white rouge on the buffing wheel. The final step is to apply Sharkhide protectant to maintain the shine. Either way, you've now got a custom detail that sets your project apart. Here in northern Illinois, USA, we're enjoying a relatively mild winter season; not a flake of snow on the ground and daytime high temps running around 10° above "normal." But, Mother Nature has the entire second half of her winter show to remind us who's in charge. In any case, today we can celebrate that half-way mark, knowing that brighter, longer, warmer days await. As a reminder, here's a video from YouTube's Half Fast Fred with a ride over the Continental Divide at Wolf Creek Pass in southwest Colorado on his VFR800. What: 1990 VFR750R Where: Tiptop, Virginia Why: RC30 Price: BaT auction UPDATE: Sold for $30,000 This is an unusual offering in the world of RC30 trading. Showing 20,000 miles with a recent mechanical refurbishment, this bike lives in the netherworld between a collector's dream and a rider's opportunity. This example displays a lot of originality but suffers (from a collector's view) from many missing and incorrect parts along with cosmetic blemishes, and, there's an unknown history, with the likelihood of a racing past. The RC30 was never meant to function well as an everyday rider — it's a race bike sold to a relative handful of consumers only to satisfy racing homologation rules. In the end, this example might be a good basis for a full restoration. If so, Honda's recent “RC30 Forever” Genuine Parts Program should help — just keep your credit healthy. Auction ends January 17. What: 1984 VF1000F Where: Forney (Dallas), TX Why: Nice, low-mileage survivor Price: Ebay auction UPDATE: SOLD for $7300 I'm always happy to see a nicely-kept, low-mile Interceptor made available for another owner to experience. This listing helps out with lots of informative photos, showing the excellent mufflers, a key point on any black chrome-equipped VF. I'll let the seller tell us about it: "Excellent survivor 1984 Honda VF 1000F Motorcycle. Bike runs and looks amazing. Paint and coverings are in excellent condition. There is a small minor paint chip on the left front fender. V4 motor only has 13,900 miles on it. Engine serviced this month, installed new brakes and tires. Coolant flushed and replaced with new coolant. All hydraulic fluids flushed - brakes and hydraulic clutch replaced with fresh fluid. No rips or tears in seat. Everything works. Bike never laid down and garage kept. Clear Texas title!" The first day of my new year began with the reassembly of Project 39's rear suspension and axle/brake components. This 1993 VFR750 suffered years of slow deterioration in Florida's salt air (right photo), and so every piece required attention. I began with a thorough degreasing and cleaning, doing my best to polish out the bits of corrosion on the aluminum parts. particularly the swingarm, which I elected to leave in place. All the bearings checked out okay, so were cleaned and re-greased. With the axle and brake parts on the bench, I proceeded to de-rust and repaint the rotor and torque arm, followed by a complete rebuild (w/OEM parts) and painting of the caliper. For this project, I chose EBC V-Pad semi-sintered brake pads for the rear application. I generally use their HH sintered pad, but they can be too effective on a non-ABS rear brake, at least in my opinion. We'll see. In any case, the orange pads look kinda racy. Braided brake lines, in black, are waiting on the shelf, right next to a new RK/Superlite 520 chain & sprocket conversion kit with a 1-tooth larger front sprocket from Sprocket Center. (click on an image to enlarge) (Right) Here's a shot of the DMr custom modified Honda CBR 929 shock absorber. This is a fully adjustable unit with a remote reservoir located at the top of the shock. The reservoir will prove to be an issue as I move on to the next step — installing the subframe and fender. The pink arrow points to the heat shield which I showed in an earlier electrolysis post. It required repainting because it's visible through two openings on the right side of the frame. It's always nice to begin the new year with some shiny parts coming together. From July, 2017 Several of my projects have suspension modifications, from mild to more complex. A basic component of suspension is the spring, and is probably the most modified of suspension parts. When we change out the spring, it's nearly always to change the spring rate. So what does spring rate mean? In simple terms, a 1.1kg/mm spring, for example, means that it will require 1.1 kilograms (2.4 pounds) of force to move the spring one millimeter. Straight-wound means that the spring has a constant resistance throughout its movement — each additional millimeter of movement requires an additional 1.1kg of force. A true "progressive" or "dual-rate" spring will have less resistance in its initial travel and greater resistance as it compresses. This would theoretically be ideal in a street application, so as to allow small bumps to move the fork or swingarm more easily (less jarring) but then resist large bumps to prevent bottoming. In practice, however, this isn't completely practical for the relatively short fork/shock travel common to street motorcycles, but is very useful in the off-road world with their long-travel suspensions. Soft initial travel also promotes undesirable fork dive under braking. In fact, road racing bikes will almost always have straight-wound (constant rate) springs. This allows the rider to experience the same springing throughout the race — no surprises. Of course, road racing bikes typically ride on relatively smooth surfaces. The reality is that springs are mostly there to hold the bike up at a correct height (setting the height is the function of preload) — it's the damping system's job to provide suspension control, and so is much more important to handling. A high-end shock absorber like an Ohlins, for example, has a similar spring to anyone else's, it's what's inside that counts. For much more on suspension theory and real-life application I recommend Lee Parks' book
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