I've recently made room for my latest victim, Project 24, a 1995 VFR750, and got it stripped down for evaluation. I always begin with the mechanical basics, just to be sure we have a viable machine to work with. The carburetors were in good condition and had obviously been tweaked sometime in the past. There's a K&N air filter and DynoJet kit installed to compliment the Micron slip-on exhaust. I completed the carb work with a thorough cleaning along with new fuel tube o-rings and fuel lines. They're remounted and ready for syncing.
Next up is the valve clearance check. With an unknown maintenance history, I always go to the trouble of checking the valves. In this case everything was spot on with the exception of number two intakes — both were too tight. The intake valve spec for this engine is .006" with a +/- of only .001". These were at .004". Unlike the 1986-87 engines which utilize simple nut & screw adjustment, these later engines have a shim-under-bucket arrangement. As the valve train wears the valve clearances will actually get tighter — a bad situation which can lead to compression leaks and even burnt exhaust valves. So, a tight clearance is unacceptable.
(Right) Fixing the situation requires removal of the appropriate camshaft. With the front intake cam removed the bucket is lifted free and the tiny shim is visible sitting in a shallow recess.
(Below) Shown on the left are the removed camshaft components. The shims are available at my local dealer in a variety of thicknesses. I picked up two 2.000 mm shims which put both valves right in spec. $12.00.
One can see why valve checks cost so much as a service item. There's a fair amount of labor involved getting to the valves, removing cams, and buttoning it all back up. Though not strictly necessary, I remove the carbs and radiator, giving much more room to do this right. It's very important to follow the book on this procedure, lest the cam timing gets screwed up. Keep it clean and torque to spec. This adjustment should be good for at least another 30K miles.
(Below) Shown on the left are the removed camshaft components. The shims are available at my local dealer in a variety of thicknesses. I picked up two 2.000 mm shims which put both valves right in spec. $12.00.
One can see why valve checks cost so much as a service item. There's a fair amount of labor involved getting to the valves, removing cams, and buttoning it all back up. Though not strictly necessary, I remove the carbs and radiator, giving much more room to do this right. It's very important to follow the book on this procedure, lest the cam timing gets screwed up. Keep it clean and torque to spec. This adjustment should be good for at least another 30K miles.
Speaking of radiators, here's a situation I find all the time — filthy, clogged and bent up radiators. This is a maintenance item. Letting your radiator get to this point (below) compromises the cooling system and stresses the engine. Coolant should be flushed every two years so it's a perfect opportunity to gently brush and hose off the radiator. The FSM will also show how to straighten bent cooling fins using a small straight-blade screwdriver (the same applies to the oil cooler). On the early models the protective grill is easily removed with four small screws, while these later models simply pop off.
The expansion tank, shown in the right photo, is actually empty. That gray tint is dirty sludge left behind from years of neglect. The tank is easily removed for occasional cleaning — I use a baby bottle brush and degreaser.
The expansion tank, shown in the right photo, is actually empty. That gray tint is dirty sludge left behind from years of neglect. The tank is easily removed for occasional cleaning — I use a baby bottle brush and degreaser.
(Below) The instrument facia on this bike had gotten something splashed onto it in the past, leaving some light spotting on the black plastic. I didn't want to paint the facia, so to address this, I removed and disassembled the cluster, then dabbed a black dye onto the spots followed by an application of 303 plastic protectant. It looks great and the original facia is preserved. The clear lenses were in excellent condition, so just a cleaning and everything went back together.
(Right) The seals were seeping on the forks, so a standard disassembly and replacement is in order. An inspection shows the bushings looking like new, so I suspect, at 38,000 miles, that these forks had had a major service in the not-to-distant past.
With the forks removed, the steering head bearings can be checked by moving the steering head back and forth, feeling for roughness or a "notch" in the centered position. This bike had a distinct notch, so I fitted an All Balls tapered bearing kit.
With the forks removed, the steering head bearings can be checked by moving the steering head back and forth, feeling for roughness or a "notch" in the centered position. This bike had a distinct notch, so I fitted an All Balls tapered bearing kit.
(Right) Another commonly neglected maintenance item. I always do a complete cleaning/flushing of the brake and clutch hydraulics, and here's what I find all too often. Do we really want to depend on this syrupy mess to operate our brakes?
Flushing every two to three years will keep this from happening.
Flushing every two to three years will keep this from happening.
My usual practice with regard to the PAIR (exhaust air injection system) is to simply remove it. Looking over the components, I found a deteriorated filter and hoses, so everything came off.
Part of this procedure is to plug the small injection ports adjacent to the exhaust ports. I do this by cutting the tubes, tapping some 3/8" threads and epoxying in some threaded plugs (see "Plugging the PAIR Ports" on the Maintenance page).
During all this activity, I've got a few items off to the powdercoater to fancy up this project just a bit. Fresh Avon tires have been mounted and the wheels detailed. My paintless dent removal guy (a true wizard) took care of a couple of small dents in the fuel tank.
I've also begun refurbishing the paintwork. One item on the list is to remove the old dealer stickers from the fuel tank. I begin with a little heat applied and careful peeling, beginning with a plastic razor blade. The residual adhesive is removed with 3M Adhesive Cleaner. After so many years, there's going to be a shadow left behind, which I attack with a wet-sanding and machine buffing.
Lots to do, but I'm turning the corner towards reassembly.
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