I was recently tuning a set of 2d-gen carburetors using Project 41, an '87 VFR700F2 which has become my de facto carb tuning mule. This project has been repeatedly relegated to the back burner as other projects and tasks get priority on the lift. But, while I'm awaiting paintwork for those projects, I took the opportunity to do some additional teardown and assessment on #41, beginning with the rear wheel assembly.
This bike was built May, '87 as a blue/silver model and here we see the original gray wheels. There's lots of cosmetic neglect on this VFR which, of course, makes me cringe. These photos show the layer of oily black dirt built up over the decades, really evident here on the swingarm and sprocket/carrier assembly. I spent 30 seconds with a cloth and solvent on a section of the sprocket carrier — the grime came right off, revealing a very nice underlying finish.
This bike was built May, '87 as a blue/silver model and here we see the original gray wheels. There's lots of cosmetic neglect on this VFR which, of course, makes me cringe. These photos show the layer of oily black dirt built up over the decades, really evident here on the swingarm and sprocket/carrier assembly. I spent 30 seconds with a cloth and solvent on a section of the sprocket carrier — the grime came right off, revealing a very nice underlying finish.
The Dunlop K591 rear tire is definitely past its use-by date; manufactured March, 1996! It's also a non-original size: 140/70. The three rear bearings all feel perfectly smooth on this bike.
I also removed the right footpeg assembly (below). This one shows some impact and slide damage — it's bent inward and actually cracked completely through. Fortunately, I have a spare so this casting will go to the recycle bin.
(Left) I came across an anomaly during this disassembly, at least in my experience. The brake torque arm's forward attachment point uses a nut & bolt; every other VFR I've worked on had a threaded swingarm bracket — no nut needed. This bike is one of the unknown number of USA-built VFRs, so might this be a distinguishing feature of those bikes?
(Below) TIP: Here's a back-saving technique I use whenever I possibly can, and for good reason: Years ago I disabled myself for four months after lifting upward on a VFR rear wheel in order to feed the axle during assembly. I was bent over at the hip, and felt a strange sensation in my lower back and heard a slight crunching sound. I dropped everything where it lay and within an hour I was bed-ridden. I had displaced my lowest three vertebrae in a stair-step fashion, resulting in a sporadic, severely pinched nerve whenever I was on my feet, the pain literally bringing me to my knees. It took months of therapy before I was able to reenter the garage to pick up the scattered tools and slowly ease back into my work. All from installing an axle.
So here's what I do. Whenever possible, I use a jack to raise the rear of the bike, as opposed to a centerstand. This way I'm able to adjust the height of the bike so the rear tire makes slight contact with the lift or floor (for axle removal) or the swingarm lines up with the wheel center (for installation). I can then align the swingarm chain adjuster, wheel bearings and caliper carrier — the axle slides in or out with two fingers. No lifting of the rear wheel necessary.
BTW, I'm jacking the bike across the centerstand frame bosses using a specifically-sized block of 2x4 (this bike has no centerstand installed). The jack pictured here is from Harbor Freight, a compact, low-profile aluminum jack which works well in the confined space on the lift. Here I've temporarily installed a spare wheel which will allow me to take my time with any work I wish to do on the original wheel. Next, I'll remove the forks and front wheel assembly and install spares, allowing the bike to be moved around the shop.
So here's what I do. Whenever possible, I use a jack to raise the rear of the bike, as opposed to a centerstand. This way I'm able to adjust the height of the bike so the rear tire makes slight contact with the lift or floor (for axle removal) or the swingarm lines up with the wheel center (for installation). I can then align the swingarm chain adjuster, wheel bearings and caliper carrier — the axle slides in or out with two fingers. No lifting of the rear wheel necessary.
BTW, I'm jacking the bike across the centerstand frame bosses using a specifically-sized block of 2x4 (this bike has no centerstand installed). The jack pictured here is from Harbor Freight, a compact, low-profile aluminum jack which works well in the confined space on the lift. Here I've temporarily installed a spare wheel which will allow me to take my time with any work I wish to do on the original wheel. Next, I'll remove the forks and front wheel assembly and install spares, allowing the bike to be moved around the shop.
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