Fortunately, during these isolated times, I have lots of shop projects to keep me busy. Project 9, a 1986 VFR750F, has undergone a maintenance regimen, including carburetor cleaning/syncing, stator hardwired, fresh tires mounted, brake checks, fluid flushes, and lots of little chores completed.
(Below) I found mice evidence in the airbox which, fortunately, had not damaged the carbs below. This is a stock tuned engine with an OEM air filter installed when I did the original refurbishment eight years ago. The OEM filter is NLA from Honda, but HiFlofiltro now offers an identical-looking replacement which I sourced from Amazon for $20. (part #HFA1707)
(click on images to enlarge)
(Below) I found mice evidence in the airbox which, fortunately, had not damaged the carbs below. This is a stock tuned engine with an OEM air filter installed when I did the original refurbishment eight years ago. The OEM filter is NLA from Honda, but HiFlofiltro now offers an identical-looking replacement which I sourced from Amazon for $20. (part #HFA1707)
(click on images to enlarge)
(Below) I was interested in disassembling this particular set of carburetors to see how my VITON bowl gaskets and NAPA rubber vacuum caps (for deleting the CA emissions) had withstood eight years of use. The bowl gaskets looked like new, but the same can't be said for the vacuum caps, which had begun to crack and possibly leak. These caps are designed for engine use, so I was surprised to discover this. After some research, I've sourced some 3/16" silicone caps designed for hi-temp applications, so should last a long time. The baby blue color is just a bonus.
(Below) The carburetors were still clean and the jets clear, so I just upgraded the fuel tube o-rings and fuel lines, reassembled, then leak-tested.
(Below) Next, I found that the headlight was working intermittently, which I traced to the starter switch — this switch is designed to turn off the headlight when depressed. I have found this issue in past projects, and it's simply a matter of the switch contacts becoming contaminated with years of dirt accumulation. The photo points to the switch box, and once removed I simply spray the contacts with electronic cleaner followed by a thin coating of dielectric grease to prevent corrosion. While the assembly is apart, I clean the throttle tube inside and out, and dab some grease on the cable ferules. Job done.
(Below) If the right-side switch gear was gummy, I thought I should check the left side. Good thing. The first sign of trouble was the mud dauber nest (arrows). But glancing at the choke cable, I found the cable frayed with only a few strands remaining. It wasn't long for this world. Turns out the cable is NLA from Honda and I couldn't find an aftermarket available in the U.S. Fortunately, I found one in the massive V4 Dreams secret underground parts stash facility so I was able to clean, lube and reassemble.
(Right) With the carbs off, I always have a peek at the intake tracts, looking for carbon buildup on the valves and valve stems. These are the cleanest I've ever seen on an older VFR, in fact, they look nearly new.
Once the wheels/tires are remounted, this one will be ready for the bodywork to be installed and its test ride.
| Here's a short video of the running bike after its syncing operation. | |
RSS Feed