Project 11, a 1986 VFR700F, is at the reassembly stage. In order to get her back on her feet, new steering head bearings need to be fitted. I always use tapered bearings from All Balls which I consider an upgrade. The lower bearing is pressed on and can be a project in itself to remove and install — see the "Maintenance" page tutorial, "Steering Head Bearing Replacement," for my home-brewed technique.
Here, I'm driving the new upper bearing race into place using a drift and hammer. I slowly work my way around till the tone of the hammer changes, indicating that the race has seated. The OEM caged ball bearings are shown below, and the new tapered set.
Here, I'm driving the new upper bearing race into place using a drift and hammer. I slowly work my way around till the tone of the hammer changes, indicating that the race has seated. The OEM caged ball bearings are shown below, and the new tapered set.
Next up is carburetor installation and tuning. When I removed the air cleaner, a cleanable K&N, I found disintegrating bits of foam all over the filter. The foam comes from the snorkel and was used as a sound deadening material. Over time, it deteriorates and gets sucked into the air plenum. This stuff should always be removed.
I use a small wire brush and plastic scraper, then scrub with soap and water, removing every bit of foam and adhesive that I can.
I use a small wire brush and plastic scraper, then scrub with soap and water, removing every bit of foam and adhesive that I can.
Next, I'l need to clean and re-oil the filter. I use K&N's Recharger kit, which includes their cleaner, oil and instructions.
(Below) Start by spraying down the filter with cleaner and allow about ten minutes to soak. In the first photo below, the shadow from some of the larger foam pieces are visible on the filter, but there were hundreds of smaller bits embedded in the filter folds.
Next , the filter is hosed clean and allowed to air dry. Then the filter is fully re-oiled — while avoiding drenching it with oil.
(Below) Start by spraying down the filter with cleaner and allow about ten minutes to soak. In the first photo below, the shadow from some of the larger foam pieces are visible on the filter, but there were hundreds of smaller bits embedded in the filter folds.
Next , the filter is hosed clean and allowed to air dry. Then the filter is fully re-oiled — while avoiding drenching it with oil.
(Below) This model requires that the OEM rubber gasket (arrow) be removed from both halves of the air box when installing a K&N filter. Here, the cleaned filter is installed.
I'm now ready to fire up the bike and sync the carbs.
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