Project 18, an '86 VFR750, is in the reassembly stage, and that's when all the little details hit.
This bike spent several years in a pole barn on a working farm in West Virginia and accumulated a coating of brown dirt. Fortunately, it hadn't progressed to the corrosion stage and all these parts will clean up nicely with a combination of modern cleaners and a few tools, but mostly old fashioned elbow grease.
This bike spent several years in a pole barn on a working farm in West Virginia and accumulated a coating of brown dirt. Fortunately, it hadn't progressed to the corrosion stage and all these parts will clean up nicely with a combination of modern cleaners and a few tools, but mostly old fashioned elbow grease.
Shown above is the left side rider's peg assembly and the right side was no better.
After a good scrubbing, some light wet sanding and hand polishing these parts are looking showroom fresh.
After a good scrubbing, some light wet sanding and hand polishing these parts are looking showroom fresh.
And here's the refinished shift and brake levers. These are cast aluminum and originally finished in a silver paint or anodizing, not really sure.
In some cases I've stripped, smoothed and polished these parts, but on this restoration project I've decided to leave the original casting marks and simply refinished them in silver wheel paint with clearcoat. A fresh OEM shift rubber and they're ready for mounting.
In some cases I've stripped, smoothed and polished these parts, but on this restoration project I've decided to leave the original casting marks and simply refinished them in silver wheel paint with clearcoat. A fresh OEM shift rubber and they're ready for mounting.
These chain adjuster end plates have a tough life being located at the rear of the swingarm. They tend to collect dirt and chain spooge, and are usually ignored when cleaning the bike.
Also cast aluminum, they will polish up nicely on the buffing wheel. They weren't a mirror finish when new, so I just buff them to a satin finish and clean up the adjusting bolts. In this case, a little TLC goes a long way.
Also cast aluminum, they will polish up nicely on the buffing wheel. They weren't a mirror finish when new, so I just buff them to a satin finish and clean up the adjusting bolts. In this case, a little TLC goes a long way.
The side axle plates were also in tough shape. These appear to be stainless steel and I was able to bring them back with a quick buff with a metal finishing pad mounted on the die grinder. To keep 'em looking good, I wipe them down with a corrosion inhibitor called Corrosion-X. It's a mil-spec product developed for the military to treat metal corrosion on aircraft.
In their effort to "add lightness," Honda began to use more plastic during the 1980s. One part that changed from heavy metal was the chain guard. Over time, however, the long and not very well supported piece tends to twist or warp and begins to look a little wonky. I've found that if the right amount of heat is applied judiciously these plastic parts can be massaged nearer to their original shape. This chain guard was deformed near the rear and actually rubbing on the rear sprocket. I use my trusty heat gun and gently warm the area that I think will help reshape the part and then hold it (with thick gloves — it gets hot!) as it cools. This takes several gentle attempts. Be careful, too much heat and the part can deform or even bubble till its no longer useable.
To bring back the original finish I lightly wet sand the chain guard and apply one or two coats of Griot's Bumper & Trim Reconditioner. This stuff works on all the black plastic parts, like the rear fender/license plate area.
(click on an image to enlarge)
To bring back the original finish I lightly wet sand the chain guard and apply one or two coats of Griot's Bumper & Trim Reconditioner. This stuff works on all the black plastic parts, like the rear fender/license plate area.
(click on an image to enlarge)
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