One of the tasks facing us on Project 30 is the replacement of the left mid-fairing decal. Chris is replacing the original fairing with a nicer example, but which was originally mounted on a 700cc model. While the "750" designation was displayed on the 750s, there was no numbering on the 700 version. As we can see, someone went to the trouble of adding "700" lettering to this fairing. In any case, we're replacing it with a reproduction 750 decal.

(Below) We begin with removing the old decal, noting that the goal is to preserve the fairing's finish which will be clearcoated once the proper decal is in place. I cover this technique on the "Maintenance" page (Decal Removal - No Mar), and the first step is to gently heat the decal and start the removal by scraping a corner with a fresh plastic razor. Continue heating, peeling and scraping till the entire decal is removed, leaving behind the remaining adhesive.
(click on an image to enlarge)

(Below) I remove the adhesive with a combination of 3M Adhesive Cleaner, plastic scraper, non-scuff pad and a final wipe of cleaner on a fresh paper towel till we're left with a spotless fairing panel. The process took me about 30 minutes to this point.

My next step is an overall sanding with 1500-grit wet/dry to remove paint scuffs and imperfections (as much as possible), and prepare the surface for clearcoat.

Finally, I apply the decal...but that's a discussion for another time.

(Below) The finished product, ready for mounting!

I've recently completed brake systems rebuilding on projects 29 and 30, including front and clutch masters and all calipers. Years ago I once made the mistake of assembling the front outboard brake pads at a cocked angle, which causes brake drag and uneven wear on the pad. Here's how to avoid that mistake.

In the photo to the right I've pointed out the two tiny tangs that locate those outboard pads. During assembly be sure to capture the pads within the tangs, then secure with the slider pins. A small but important detail.

Obviously, those tangs locate to the outboard side of the calipers; to assemble the rear caliper spring, first insert the small tab into its locating hole (right photo)........

....then press downward to secure (right).

Next, insert the inboard pad, press downward slightly to pass the slider pins through the pad's locating holes, and repeat for the outer pad.

(I'm showing the '86-87 here)

​Mistakes are not acceptable when it comes to our brake systems, so I proceed carefully, double-checking my work as I progress.

What: 1995 VFR750F
Where: Bayville, New Jersey
Why: Pristine, low miles
Price: $3000

​This kind of find is soooo tempting. Original look, nicely appointed, low miles, gleaming original condition....

Located along the Atlantic seaboard, this minty '95 checks all the boxes for the carbureted 4th-gen, short of some suspension magic. "Runs as good as it looks," the ad reads. Some nice details include the Staintune muffler, rear fender eliminator, aftermarket seat plus original, including the cowl. No word on whether the original muffler and rear fender are included, but they're not hard to locate in the online world. I've owned two of this generation, and I have to say they're my favorite for racking up the miles with performance and style. The caretaker of this VFR will never need apologize for his or her choice of motorbike.
(click on the dash photo and look closely — those pristine details give a great indication of what you're getting)

Progress continues on Project 30, a 1986 VFR750F, and now that the front forks, brakes and wheel/tire are back in place it's time to begin refitting the bodywork. 

This is a very low-mile bike with no apparent prior damage so things are fitting well, with minimal massaging needed. The fuel tank interior was restored with a basic vinegar soaking. The mirrors will need repainting and one fairing will require a decal replaced followed by clear coat. The light at the end of the tunnel is clearly visible.

As Project 30 progresses through the reassembly stage I'm beginning to piece the body together, and today was the windscreen's turn.

The screen looked pretty bad at first blush but no severe damage, like gouges or cracks. I normally would begin the process by a light wet sanding with 3000 or 5000-grit, followed by buffing with two grades of compound. The sandpaper route can be a risky go, however, as just a bit too much sanding can often remove an invisible coating, just like clearcoat on paint — in this case likely an anti-scratch coating.

Because this screen had no physical damage, I elected to forego the sandpaper, instead substituting a faster cutting compound — Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #100, which looks to be their most aggressive compound, followed by Griot's Correcting Creme. The entire process took about 30 minutes.

This proved to be a very effective alternative to sanding. I taped off the left half of the screen to show the change. The camera doesn't really pick up the full effect, but suffice to say it worked.

In response to the global pandemic, declining show attendance and general malaise in the motorcycling world, International Motorcycle Shows has made the decision to change its format from a winter indoor event to a summer outdoor convention-style show encompassing an expanded emphasis on outdoor powersports in general. I agree that our annual Chicago show in February has become repetitive, but it was still a nice mid-winter break for those of us entrenched in the cold, snow and ice of a midwest winter. Guess we'll just have to take a little trip to Key West instead.

Show locations and dates will be announced in December. Here's a little promo video from IMS:

I was recently reminded of how a tool that we easily take for granted can be such a lifesaver in a mechanical pinch. I came across a corroded master cylinder reservoir screw that was simply not going to budge, even with all the pressure I could muster by hand. Time to reach for the impact screwdriver kit.

I was browsing "Inside the Garage," which is a sub-feature of "Continue The Ride," which is a sub-feature of IMS (International Motorcycle Shows), if I'm following the progression correctly. In any case there's a short video on the lowly impact screwdriver, which we may not think of as an essential tool...until that moment comes where a couple of whacks on this thing will save the fastener, possibly save the part and save a boatload of time removing a trashed screw head. And, if you don't have a kit like this in your tool collection, it might be a great suggestion for that understanding significant other as a holiday gift.

​Here's Steve Knoble at Skidmark Garage with a demonstration (and check out their other YouTube videos):

I'm not sure what to make of this item up for sale on eBay. It's listed as a Honda Test Track, which our seller speculates was an apparatus made available to dealers to use as some sort of treadmill for motorcycles. I'm having trouble visualizing how it was used, maybe as an indoor testing device after performing service? I also can't figure out which is the front and which is the rear, but the two large ducts, powered by the moving belt, apparently blow air for engine cooling, which would make that the front end. The large center pad would then be used by the "rider's" back to help steady the bike as the rear tire did its best to slide sideways off the belt? I have no idea, but this looks like a lawsuit waiting to happen.

In any case, it can be yours for $1750 or Make Offer. Shipping is on you, or pick it up in Leveret, Massachusetts.