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I happened across a photo of a 1990 Ducati the other day and was struck by how closely it resembles the 1990 Honda VFR. I realize styles follow trends, but it sure looks like someone was admiring someone else's design.
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Click on image for the Iconic link SOLD: $11,128 This exceptional 1983 VF750F Interceptor sold earlier this month on Iconic Motorbikes Auctions for an impressive $10,400 + buyers fee. The bike is a Euro-spec example (note the gold wheels), was reportedly imported when new, has a California title and shows only 267 miles! The photos show a high level of originality and condition, with some expected patina creeping through after 42 years as a display piece. Recent maintenance has brought it back to operational status, with the odd omission of mounting new tires (original tires are sometimes left on collectible bikes, but these are not originals). Often cited as the first modern Superbike — near-stock examples won eight of the fourteen AMA Nationals in 1983 — this is an important Honda, especially to us V4 fans. It probably belongs in a museum but I hope its new caretaker isn't afraid to add some miles…on fresh rubber. November 11 is Veterans Day—a day to honor and remember the bravery, contributions, and sacrifices of the members of our armed services who have defended us so ably, who have run toward danger rather than away from it, and helped to sustain our freedom through their courage and service.
Yes, you can thank a veteran for your freedom. On November 11, be sure to show our veterans that you respect their years of service and commitment to this country. Salute them, in your own way, on Veterans Day. From The Archives: November 2022 The space vehicle we call Earth has tilted once again, reducing Mother Sun's effective calefaction to those of us on the top half of the globe…in other words, winter us upon us, and here in America's snow belt, that translates into some five months of motorbike hibernation.
Machines don't respond well to disuse, but there's at least one common storage misconception that we need to heed, and that's the fallacy that running an engine during storage is somehow "good" for the machine. It is not, and the photo above is graphic proof. What we're looking at is an amazing window into the innards of a 1986 VFR750F (Project 38), thanks to Sebspeed's modified clutch cover. What we see is a huge accumulation of moisture created when a cold engine has been run for the first few minutes after startup. What we don't see is the production of acids created by the incomplete combustion process, due to the cold engine's need for a rich fuel setting and those gasses slipping past the not-yet-expanded cylinders and rings. Note that by "cold" I mean any ambient temperature — not just the cold months. This photo was taken on a warm summer day. This situation took 20 minutes of running in order to heat the engine's interior to the point where the excess moisture finally evaporated and the window cleared. When a well-meaning owner starts his engine every few weeks and idles it for several minutes this is what he or she is producing. The inside surfaces of the crankcase are awash in this water and acid soup, and when it's shut down the corrosion of aluminum and steel parts begins — bearings, gears, camshafts, etc. A stored engine does not need this exercise, but if you insist on making yourself feel better by running your stored engine, then it must be taken on the road for at least 20 minutes of normal riding to effectively dissipate this stuff. If not, you're doing more harm than good. And, speaking of acids, remember that used motor oil holds suspended combustion acids. These too will spend the winter months eating away at your engine's internal bits. That's why engine oil should be changed at the END of the riding season, NOT the beginning. Be considerate of our machine's needs; when the warmth returns we will be rewarded with a willing and able riding companion. Yesterday I deferred to Mother Nature in the face of our changing seasons, sneaking a final ride on a beautiful sunny day in preparation for winter storage. My '93 VFR seemed to appreciate the gesture, running splendidly in the cool, dry air and handling my local twisties with smoothness and confidence. I realize that personifying machines is just a human foible, but those of us who relate to mechanical devices know how real it feels. With the engine warmed, last season's oil drained easily, followed by screwing on a new HiFlo Filtro HF303 and the oddly gratifying addition of fresh Honda GN-4 10w40 — speaking of, I was shocked to find my dealer's oil price had grown to $37 from my last purchase of $25! Tariffs? Inflation? Price gouging? With fewer than 1000 miles accumulated over the season, my additional checks went smoothly; chain clean/lube, check the hydraulic fluids and apply a coat of instant detailer. I had already filled the tank on my previous ride with ethanol-free fuel with added stabilizer, so no worries there. A final check of the tire pressures and I think she's ready for a winter's sleep. A reader recently asked a simple but important question regarding the best way to remove carburetor jets. It's a simple question because they're just flat blade screwdriver compatible, but important because if you manage to break off the soft brass ears you're left with a chore that may not end well. I learned this the hard way years ago when both the pilot and main jets refused to move and I managed to damage them to the point of rendering that carb body into junk. Since I began using this simple technique I've never had another issue. The most important thing is to have a screwdriver blade that fits properly—not loose and definitely not so tight that it won't bottom out in the groove--it must bottom in the groove. Search your screwdriver collection, or a multi-purpose screwdriver like the one pictured often has a blade to fit large and small jet sizes. Next, my technique is to fit the blade squarely in the groove, not tilted side-to-side or front-to-back, really grab the handle, push down hard onto the jet, then give a quick and forceful "snap" to break the jet loose. You may only have one or two chances to get it right, so take your time to be square in the jet's groove. If a jet still refuses to budge, rather than force it to the point of breaking, I will soak the threads in parts penetrant overnight and then add heat from a small butane torch and try again. If you're in the unfortunate circumstance of having a broken jet, you can try to cut a new screwdriver groove with a Dremel tool or grab with a small vise grip or, as a last resort, carefully drill out the jet with successively larger bits until the remaining threads (hopefully) twist free. FOR QUICK REFERENCE
Click on image for the BaT auction site SOLD: $9600 Time for some armchair quarterbacking. I've been watching with interest this particular Bring-A-Trailer auction. As the classic vehicle market cools, while the '07 VFR Anniversary Edition values have simultaneously crept upward, I wondered where this exceptional example would score. Typical Anniversary values have been hovering around $6000 for desirable bikes so here we see that when two bidders have the itch for a nice one, they can raise today's selling price by $2000 in the final 15 minutes. I'm willing to wager that had this VFR been marketed on a non-auction format, the selling price would have been thousands lower. What makes this one special? Start with the low 2200 miles and finish with a known 2-owner history, original condition and exceptional appearance. This is a non-ABS model, but that's only of consequence to some bidders and not to others. A pristine set of matching Hondaline panniers would complete this model, also not included. On the plus side is ownership by a Japanese classic bike enthusiast and a VFR that's been lovingly kept and cared for. Congratulations to the seller and the new caretaker. Bridgestone's Fall rebates are running through October 31st. Click on the image below for details. For good prices, free shipping and help with the rebate, visit my go-to tire retailer:
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/tires-and-wheels/tires Click on image for the eBay link A Minnesota eBay seller is offering this new-in-the-box Honda OEM muffler on an eBay classified for $499, including shipping. But, after a few days in my watchlist, I got a purchase offer for $399. Described simply as "in great condition," the photos appear to show a never-mounted piece in new condition. Just a reminder for anyone in the market for this — I have available a slightly used one for $150 (and other stuff): https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjC7BCV Over the years I've replaced untold number of damaged screws from previously serviced carburetor sets. Not surprising, really, considering most folks aren't familiar with the old JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screw head design and/or aren't equipped with the proper screwdrivers in any case. Honda's screws are often spec'd with kinda soft metal in many cases and breaking free screws which may have been in place for three or four decades often takes considerable force — the plenum-to-carb screws are a good example.
It has recently dawned on me that other home mechanics likely have similar issues with these screws, so I've decided to offer the most common offenders on the "Products" page of this website. There you'll find high quality replacements (some NLA from Honda), in the perfect size and quantity. I hope these items help out where needed. Click on the page header to navigate to the "Products" page. |
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