What: 1983 VF750 (V45)
Where: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
Why: Clean, fresh paint, nice pipes
Price: $3000

Here's the definition of a classic Interceptor, the very first of the breed — a first-year V45 in stock condition. Located in central Wisconsin, our seller is of few words, but this example shows 20,000 miles with a professional repaint and described in "excellent condition, cosmetically and mechanically."

The typical sore spots on the VF look great — mufflers, wheels, engine covers and frame, which is steel and prone to rust. This may have been a frame-off restoration — someone's labor of love. Hard to go wrong at the asking price of $3000. If I were the seller, I'd get it on Bring-A-Trailer and watch the bidders go nuts.

Project 31, a 1986 VFR700 F2, came back to life yesterday. This California-spec bike was treated to the usual carb cleaning and tweaking plus removal of all the emissions hardware, including removing the PAIR lines.

Before I even think about trying to sync a set of carbs on a project, I confirm that the valves are set and the compression readings indicate a healthy engine. But, when I removed the valve covers on this engine things got a little "sticky." 

These photos show the result of applying RTV sealant to gasket surfaces — the next guy gets to clean it all up, but the real risk is the excess RTV getting squeezed into the inside of the engine and, if dislodged, can circulate with the oil, clogging passages and potentially damaging the engine.

Here we see a ring of RTV from the valve cover hold-down bolts which had fallen onto a cam cap when the cover was lifted free. Fortunately, I was able to retrieve all eight of these rings before they found their way down into the gear drive cavity.

Next, I had to pick out all the tiny bits of random sealant pieces in and around the valve covers — here's some of the debris from the front cylinder head and the tweezers I used to retrieve it.

Beyond the potential for engine damage, this was a time-consuming task and completely unnecessary — the rubber valve cover gaskets don't require any sealant, much less this stuff. 

Eventually everything was cleaned up, the carbs refitted, and the magic button brought it to life. After warming, the carbs sync-ed nicely and we have another great-running VFR:

What: 1997 VFR750F
Where: Warren, Michigan
Why: Low miles, final 750cc edition
Price: $3200 OBO

This bike represents the final year of the carbed 750cc VFR line. While that may not lend you any cred with the bike collector crowd, many VFR lovers prefer the analog feel of the carbureted V4s. If you like getting your hands dirty with your bike, a glance at the parts diagram of the later fuel injected models' fuel system might make your heart sink just a little. Then there's the styling — the rounded, organic curves of the NR-inspired look certainly contrast with the sharp origami style of the new models.

If that's your style of VFR, then this might be a great candidate. The odometer shows only 9000 miles and it looks to be in very original kit with the addition of a Two-Brothers CF high-mount slip-on. Tires and battery are recent, and if you can still fit in a 32-waist pant (I wish!), the seller has some extras he's including in the sale.

What: 2009 VFR800
Where: Moline, Illinois
Why: Like new, low miles
Price: $5500 OBO

No such animal as a "dark edition" VFR, of course, but if there were this might be it. Located along the mighty Mississippi River, this murdered-out final-year version of the 6th-gen Interceptor is showing only 3449 miles, put on by the original owner who bought it new in the crate in 2016. The only changes from stock are the sexy Delkevic CF mufflers and a rear fender eliminator (original exhaust included). I would unbolt those passenger peg brackets to complete the look.

The price is in line with the typical range of asking prices for nice 6th-gen VFRs, and the seller is willing to work with you a bit. This bike looks and, I'm sure, sounds the business. Do these pipes make my butt look big? I like it.

Project 32, a 1987 VFR700 F2, recently received its new rear suspender, a fresh YSS shock assembly from EPM Performance Imports in New Jersey.

The company's website was not much help regarding information and ordering, but an old-school phone call easily took care of that. If your specified rider weight is outside of the standard spring specs, the spring will be changed out accordingly. I don't have any idea if that was done in our case, as there was no further communication during the process. Don't be in a hurry — the shock took about a month to get here.

The shocks are made in Thailand and have a two-year warranty. YSS built their name as a budget shock maker specializing in the huge Asian scooter market, but reorganized a few years back to become a mainstream, mid-level, full-line manufacturer. Our model number is MZ456-275TR, denoting an emulsion gas mono shock, 275mm (10.8 inch) mounting length, "T" is threaded spring preload, "R" is rebound adjustable. So we loose the remote preload wheel on the OEM shock but gain rebound damping in a nice, shiny new shock. Cost was $426 shipped. Compare that to high-end shocks at about $750+ or rebuilding your OEM shock at about $350 parts, labor and shipping. I will be very interested to try this beauty on the road.

If ever there were a rat rod Interceptor project, this might be the perfect candidate, complete with the word "SAVE" scribbled on the hopelessly scarred fuel tank.

Barely surviving in a field in Alvin, Texas, this 1984 VF750F is looking for a new home. With a suggested drag-home price of only $600, this example of criminal neglect shows an amazing 9617 miles on the odometer. Normally I'd be more than a little skeptical of that claim, but the vintage license plate shows that the bike was last registered in 1986, so the miles could conceivably be actual. In one of the most positive bits of hyperbole I've ever seen in a motorbike ad, the seller states, "has been sitting for at least two years, so there is some surface rust." I'm thinking both of those claims are somewhat…ahh...understated. Is there a title? Of course not. My guess is that this engine suffered at the hands of a throttle-happy squid when the infamous cam oiling issue reared its ugly head, and this poor soul was pushed into this Texas field and forgotten. Best of luck to seller and buyer.

Project 33 is progressing steadily despite an arctic blast of frigid air settling over much of the country, making the garage seem much less inviting. Fortunately, I anticipated the situation and lined up some indoor projects, one of which was to prep the brake calipers for this 1993 VFR750.

In this case, a complete rebuild of the calipers was not in order, as the bike has low miles and light use. With the calipers disassembled on the bench, an inspection of the brake pistons showed that they would clean up satisfactorily — no need to remove/replace the pistons. If the pistons had corroded to the point of pitting of the shiny surface, they (and their seals) would warrant replacement.

Below I'll reference a very thorough YouTube tutorial by Delboy's Garage on servicing a Nissin caliper, a Triumph in his case, but very similar to our VFR Nissin caliper. Del specifies some specific cleaners and lubes, but stresses that his choices are not magic potions, just use what we think is best. For example, he applied something called Red Rubber grease to the pistons after cleaning. I just apply some brake fluid on the pistons to help them slide back into their bores, just be sure to avoid getting any kind of lube in contact with the pads. He shows that this service can be performed on the bike, but I've removed the calipers as I'm also servicing the forks and upgrading the brake lines — and everything's easier on the bench, right? Many of Del's brake-related videos apply to our bikes, so consider them a good reference.

​Here's our calipers assembled with EBC HH pads and ready for many more miles. TIP: Note the old brake line banjo bolt in place with a stack of washers — I do this to keep anything (dirt or liquids) out of the caliper bores during this service when the pistons will remain in their bores. If the pistons are removed for replacement, then this isn't necessary. The bolt will need to be loosened when pushing the pistons back into their bores! Then snug back up and leave in place till mounting the brake lines.

I recently came upon two VF1000Rs for sale. To call them "project bikes" would be too kind. I know the satisfaction of rescuing needy relics and breathing new life into them, but these two examples may be a few clicks beyond rescuing.

First up is this 1985 model in New York state. Showing only 12,427 miles on its crusty odometer, the poor thing is strapped together with bits from here and there — corrosion, rot and neglect dripping from every crevice.

The seller is a master of understatement. "Runs perfectly" (Hmmm...). "Seat cover…will have to be recovered/replaced." "Corrosion on the engine covers…and some surface rust." "The tank is dented and severely bulged and will need replacement or extensive repairs." Our seller also notes some fairing damage which "may have been caused in a tip-over incident." Or possibly backed into by a garbage truck. This would qualify as a parts bike, at least in my world, and you can keep the fuel tank, thanks just the same. Once stripped down to the frame, my depression factor would make a year of COVID isolation seem like a tiptoe through the tulips. Asking price was $1200, no word on whether she has a new owner.

Okay, when you see a photo like this on Facebook Minefield, your immediate reaction should be to close the app and find something more productive to occupy your valuable time, like clean the toilets.

Another (presumably) low-mileage VF1000R, this one is languishing in our seller's backyard scrap heap, slowly being reclaimed by nature. This VF shows 13,238 miles and is represented as a "1984-1985" The model year is a bit of a moot point as the title has gone missing — "lost title submission needs to be accomplished." Why do sellers always downplay a missing title and insinuate that it's the buyers' job to fix that little discrepancy? I've been down that road and, at least in the two states where I've attempted it, I've found it nearly impossible. If it's so easy, then how 'bout the seller takes care of that minor detail.

In any case, this lost soul money pit can be your next project for only $800. Located near Nashville, TN.

I spied this great photo while perusing the Honda VFR Riders USA & Canada Facebook page. The rider is, presumably, the post's author, Bbh Veilluex. He/she lists himself as an instructor at Moto Pro FMQ, a riders' organization in Quebec, Canada. I thought I'd owned a selection of VFRs, but he's had his share. Here's his comment on the eighth-gen VFR:
"I confirm: This is the best VFR-F ever after owning: 5 VFR750F 1986; 1 VFR750F 1995; 1 VFR750F 1996; 1 VFR800F 2002; 1 VFR800F 2006. My Canadian model 2015 (same as the Deluxe US model) has more than 54000Km on the clock and is always ready to have fun!"

While awaiting various parts for Project 33, a 1993 VFR750, I tackled the windscreen and chain guard refurbishment.

The screen had seen a lot of neglect but fortunately no severe damage, like cracks or gouges (right). It would need more than polishing, however, so I began with wet-sanding with a 5000-grit sponge, which proved to be not aggressive enough in this case. I switched to 1500-grit paper which is about as aggressive as I care to try on these plastic items. That seemed to do the trick, so I then worked my way through 2000, 3000 and finally to 5000-grit, on both sides of the screen. That got me to the cloudy finish shown below.

Next, the screen is buffed. In this case I began with Meguiar's Mirror Glaze 100, their most aggressive compound in the Mirror Glaze line, followed by Meguiar's Ultimate Compound for the final finish. 

The end effect is a real transformation on this original windscreen. I've shown this process before, but each item is different, and may require a different approach. The point is to always begin with the least aggressive method, going more aggressive only as necessary. The part will tell you what it needs.

Next up is the faded and graying plastic chain guard. As a nod to originality, I want to leave the decals in place, so avoiding black dye or paint makes this much easier.

Again, beginning with the least aggressive approach, I clean/degrease the part, then lightly sand with 5000-grit to even the surface, remove imperfections, and help the Mother's Back-to-Black Trim & Plastic Restorer get a grip. Here, I've treated the upper portion of the part — the difference is dramatic.

The quality and look of your finished project is the sum of many large and small projects. These are two perfect examples of how all the little things come together to make the whole.