Separating Carburetors, The Easy Way (Gen-2 & 3)

When doing a complete rebuild on 1986-93 VFR carburetors, I have the option of leaving #2 & 3 carbs joined by the throttle and choke linkages (shown by arrows in the photo), which will simplify the disassembly/reassembly process. The deciding factor here is the condition of their respective "starter valve sets," as Honda calls them (circled in the photo), which cannot be removed with the linkage fully attached. If the valves are clean and operating freely the linkages can be left in place for cleaning, If not, or if you're just OCD like me, then here's the simplest way I've found to remove the linkages and separate the carbs. These photos show a Gen-2 carb set, but the Gen-3 is very similar.

My technique involves removing the linkages from #2 carb only. This will provide just enough additional movement of the respective actuating levers to allow the valve sets to slide outward and free.

(Below) We'll begin with the easy one; the throttle. While holding the surrounding bracket very firmly with a pliers, remove the 11mm nut and lock washer and work the assembly off its shaft. Be careful how and where you hold the bracket to avoid bending the flat plate, which would later affect the throttle opening.
(click on an image to enlarge)

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(Below) Now to the choke linkage. First, I need to remove the tiny cotter key; I either carefully straighten the bent tails of the key or just cut them off flush with a wire cutter, then pull the key free with a small needle nose pliers (be sure to have a replacement cotter key on hand). Slide the linkage out the bottom of the bracket, noting the location of the upper and lower washers. Number 2 carb is now free. Both linkage arms will remain attached to #3.

(Below) The starter valves can now be worked free. First, I'll need to temporarily remove the choke lever on #2, as it has a cast-in stop which won't allow the actuating lever to open far enough for our purposes. With a pliers, remove the nut and lock washer, then the lever, noting its orientation for reassembly (as soon as the starter valve is removed, you'll reattach the arm). You have the option of removing the entire shaft, black plastic sleeve and spring if desired. If you do (or it all slips free) note the orientation of the spring.

Caution: This is an exercise in finesse, not force. You may be tempted to bend the little ears on the actuating levers — resist this, as the soft metal will easily fatigue and break. Referring to the photos below, note that the valves' plastic nuts are slightly unthreaded — break them free with a 14mm wrench or pliers, then turn by hand. This is necessary to allow the valve shaft to extend far enough out to just clear the levers' ears — unscrew too far and the nut will foul the actuating lever. Experiment with unscrewing the nut till you find the sweet spot which allows the ears to rotate far enough to clear the shaft while simultaneously pulling outward on the shaft. Rotating and holding the spring-loaded shaft clear, the nut can then be fully unscrewed and the starter valve assembly removed. This becomes easier after about the tenth time you've done it ;-(
Note: After removing #2 valve assembly, reinstall the choke lever — this will hold the shaft, plastic sleeve and spring correctly in place during the cleaning phase.

Reassembly, as they say, is the reverse of disassembly. First, install the starter valve assembly in #3, then #2, then the two shafts onto #2. (Below) When installing the tiny cotter key, I bend its tangs with a dental pick.

Congratulations on completing a procedure that intimidates even experienced mechanics.