Coffee table motorcycle books are nice to have around. They look cool, and can even pass as home decor for those of us who think, for instance, that a 40-year old Ducati would look perfectly nice in place of that potted plant in the corner of the living room. They're also a great distraction on a wintery evening when paired with a quiet house and a glass of Bulleit bourbon.

So why not a coffee table moto magazine? Craftrad is a German-language hi-class magazine who have partnered with premier internet photo site, Bike EXIF, to bring us their first international issue. It's produced in Europe and is available through Bike EXIF's website for about $21 USD.

Judging by the marketing material and site comments, it's a very well-done effort. "146 luxurious pages packed with exclusive stories, photosets, interviews and bike reviews." I can't find anything about how often the magazine will be issued, and that may depend on how many English-speaking folks are willing to pay the price for a high-end motorcycle magazine. And can it compete with Cycle World's equally "luxurious" remake? We'll see. 

It's time to determine if Project 17 is a viable running motorbike. The only thing I know about this bike's history is that the previous owner bought it as a parts bike and apparent stablemate for his running VFR750. He claimed he never ran the bike and that it sat in his pole barn for seven years. In my experience one can usually add about 50% to any time period claim with these old bikes, so at this point I'm assuming that this bike hasn't had fire in it's belly for at least 12 years. The date code on the barely worn tires are from 1997 so if we go by the tire evidence it could easily be closer to 20 years since this one has seen the road.

In any case, I'll go through the steps that I take when beginning a rescue of a 32-year old Honda VFR. First up is a soapy bath and general degreasing. This is messy work, so it's always best to start with most of the crud removed. Then it's onto the service rack.

I have no idea of the condition of the carburetors (and I've found some gems) so the carb set will need to come off for an inspection on the workbench. The evaporative canister mounted near the front exhaust pipes indicate this is a California-spec model, so several additional vacuum hoses will need to be dealt with. I'll show the removal process, even though I'll be tossing the whole mess in the trash bin.

(Below) I start with radiator removal. I do this because I know that I'll be doing a valve adjustment check and having the radiator completely out of the way makes the process much easier. Drain the coolant via the lower radiator hose, remove the two hoses, unbolt the upper and lower mounting bolts, unplug the fan connector and remove the radiator from the left side.
(click on any of the small images to enlarge)

(Below) To begin the carb removal, remove the air cleaner and housing. Be prepared for anything when the cover comes off — in this case only a few mouse meal remnants were found, and no telltale mouse pee smell. That corrosive liquid will work its way downward into the carbs and wreak all kinds of havoc, so I've dodged that bullet. In fact, the carbs look surprisingly clean. A UNI brand foam/oil filter had been installed.

(Below) Next, I unscrew the four upper carb boot ("insulator") clamps. The lower clamps can remain tightened. Then loosen, but don't remove, the choke ("enricher") cable clamp. Leave the screw in place to prevent dropping the assembly now or during reassembly. Unhook the choke cable.

(Below) I then remove the two throttle cable bracket screws (right photo) which allow the cables to be slackened and easily removed. Leave the bracket off but put the two screws back in their holes for safe-keeping. My first indication that these carbs have been dealt with before is that the lower bracket screw is incorrect.

(Below) Now the emissions stuff needs to be dealt with. I just cut the five hose connections in question, but they can also be removed if you wish to re-use the hardware. Some of the tiny clamps were missing, again indicating that someone had worked on these carbs previously. One of the vacuum hoses was cracked and leaking at carb #4, which highlights the issue with all this old emissions hardware — lots of opportunities for difficult-to-find leaks. In any case, here's the connections.

(Below) Let's get the carbs off. With everything loose, the rack is ready to lift off, but it will be stuck pretty tightly, so I gently lever the rear half free and then lift straight up to remove. I use a bent-tip lever with a plastic scraper protecting the valve cover, and lever straight up under the rearmost carbs (#1 & #3), gently pushing upward at the lower point of the diaphragm cap. If they seem immovable, check that the boot screws are very loose. Please resist the temptation to resort to a hammer.

(Below) With the carbs on the bench, drain the float bowls into a container using the drain screws. In this case the carbs were empty of fuel. Have a peek with a flashlight into the intake tracts for skeletal remains or any other debris, then stuff some clean paper towel into the tracts. If you're going to clean the engine area, cover the intake holes with squares of cut-up plastic bag and zip-tie in place.

(Below) Here's what you should see in the intake tract; nice and clean with not too much carbon build-up on the valve stems. You may also see some blue scribbling on the engine block. Those are notes from the assembly line. Tip: Replace that little radiator hose before reinstalling the carbs. See the "Maintenance" section for a how-to.

(Below) The final step is to remove the air baffling above the front cylinders. This plastic cover is held in place by two plastic "plugs" firmly stuffed into frame holes on either side. I use two flat-blade screwdrivers to pry the plugs upward completely out of their holes. Shown here is the left side; the right is a tighter fit because of the wiring harness passing above it. Just wrestle the harness out of the way. Lift the baffle up on the left side, then out. Tip: Install in reverse: lower the right side into place first. That deteriorating brown foam stuff is sound deadening — as it disintegrates it will be sucked into the air cleaner housing. Feel free to scrape and scrub it off.

Here's a look at the emissions hardware. It serves as a means to "clean" the carb fuel vapors which otherwise evaporate into the atmosphere. I'll remove it all and simply vent the line exiting at the rear of the carbs into the air. That's how it's done on the 49-state bikes. There's also five small vent tubes at the carbs which will need to be plugged. I'll cover the carb and valve work in later posts.

Next up, valve clearance check, compression check and carb cleaning.

In early 2016 I purchased a package deal of two '86 Interceptors from a seller in W. Virginia. The other one has since left the nest, and now it's time to rescue number 17, a 1986 VFR750F.

With 33,000 miles showing, this bike has obviously had some hard knocks in it's time. It's in stock condition with the exception of a set of gnarly SuperTrapp mufflers in place of the originals. There's crash evidence on both left and right sides, even the brake and clutch reservoirs are ground down in a losing argument with the asphalt. The tank and body panels are in equally tough shape but I have a full set of R/W/B survivor panels and tank for this project. Unlike my other finds, I haven't actually run this bike, so first up will be basic mechanical checks, then test run the engine. At that point I'll know if the project is a go or no-go. I'll show how I go about the rescue process in subsequent posts. Here's what we have to work with:
(click on an image to enlarge)

What: 2013 VFR1200F Interceptor
Where: Yelm, Washington
Why: New, never titled
Price: eBay auction

Located in the western shadow of Mt. Rainier, this VF12 was purchased as one half of a matched set by our seller to keep as a collector example. As such, it shows only 2.4 miles on the odometer and is showroom stock. Never titled, it comes with an MCO which can be used to obtain a title, if desired.

This bike represents the final year of a four-year run for the 1200F. It is the "standard," or non-DCT transmission. Bidding is active and there's no reserve. Auction ends June 17.

It's been 3 1/2 years since I found this 1986 VFR750 as a stalled project in Cary, Illinois. The seller was a young guy, Mike, who found himself in over his head and wanted out. To his credit, Mike used the sale proceeds to fund a fourth-gen VFR soon after I purchased the bike. Here's a shot of the bike on the trailer ride home, and after initial tear-down:

With several other projects in line ahead of this one, the bike was given all the mechanical checks and prepped for long-term storage. Last Fall I finally got it up on the rack and decided on which direction I'd take it. Initially I wanted to film dip the entire bodywork in a faux carbon fiber with some black accent stripes, but when some technical issues came up with the dipping process, I elected to go with a set of excellent and original red/white/blue body panels I had in reserve.

I did, however, dip a re-shaped front fender in carbon fiber film and mounted it up. Pictured below are comparison shots of an original and the modified fender. (click on an image to enlarge)

I've done several personal modifications and upgrades to this project. At right is a sample of the bronze textured powdercoat added to a few items: clutch & alternator covers, valve covers, sprocket cover, upper fork bridge and rear brake torque arm.

Braided stainless brake and clutch hoses are installed, foot levers and rear brake master cylinder are smoothed and polished, the swingarm is polished, SuperTrapp mufflers mounted and a RAM ball mount and switched wiring added up front for a GPS. The rear fender has been eliminated and reproduction VFR/CBR 400 LED rear turn signals added. The old signal mounts and seat/helmet lock bracket were shaved, as were the passenger footpeg brackets. When replacing the chain and sprockets, I took the opportunity to reduce the rear sprocket by two teeth, which gives about a 300 RPM drop at highway speeds. Carb tuning was minimal — mostly stock jetting with just a few tweaks. I originally installed a jet kit and opened up the SuperTrapp tuning discs, but the sound was too loud (for me) and after restricting the mufflers I found that the engine ran better with the jetting closer to stock. Now I have a great mellow tone, smooth easy-going drivability and plenty of power.

Another personal touch are heated grips. I was able to find a handy location for the switch on the left handlebar. My favorite hand grips are installed: Biltwell Recoil. And, there's GenMar bar risers for a little more upright riding position. The windscreen is an MRA aftermarket item with a little flip for a touch more windbreak.

For suspension, I rebuilt the forks and installed Progressive brand progressive springs and 10w fork oil.

Out back, the rear shock was sent off to Jamie Daugherty at DMr for a rebuild, re-valve and re-springing. Jamie will set up your shock for your personal riding style and weight. Overall, the suspension feels smooth and planted without being harsh. I'm very pleased with the feel of this bike.

The end result? I've put together a classic Interceptor with a few personal touches which give it a bit more character, performance and comfort. I think it's a nice combination of originality and custom. It will be a great rider that I don't have to be overly concerned about keeping perfect. I like that I have this instantly recognizable classic that still manages to feel like....my own.

$3300
After six seasons together, Patti & I have decided to try a completely different direction for our touring needs. Now showing 70,000 on the odometer but looking more like 20K, the bike is ready to go anywhere. Lots of nice farkles make the miles melt away and the maintenance is completely up-to-date. No excuses, no disappointments.

What: VF750S Bobber
Where: Norwich, United Kingdom
Why: "I got nothin'"
Price: $2400 Buy It Now

What do you do when you have a clapped-out early model Sabre and a (questionable) vision? Make it a bobber, of course. Why not?

Our builder went to a lot of trouble to completely transform a 1983 shaft drive VF750S into a styling exercise, complete with round headlight, springer seat and rattle-can paint. Offered for around $2400 USD buy-it-now. Hurry, auction ends Saturday.

What: 1997 VFR750F Interceptor (three?)
Where: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Why: Final year 750 in beautiful condition
Price: Auction, with opening bid of $3000

Here we have a seller who is obviously in love with the fourth-gen Interceptor. His listing description is sparse ("mint") but the pictures show a gorgeous, original bike with 20,500 miles. It's not clear whether the other two will be offered — he states that he's thinning the herd.

Our seller also has some NOS fairing panels available. These are genuinely rare pieces and he's priced them accordingly. Also listed is a set of newly powdercoated RC36 wheels; the rear a desirable 8-spoke. Click on "see other items" in the listing.

Our mirrors take a beating. Garage rash, tip-overs, whatever, after a few decades they can end up in pretty rough shape. Another issue with the second-gen mirrors is that the decorative plastic sheathing covering the mounting arm is susceptible to cracking from ham-fisted owners. I have a selection of mirrors in varying states, all needing complete refinishing before being used on one of my projects.

Recently I selected three sets of mirrors, one set with intact mounting arms and the others with cracked plastic sheathing. My solution is to remove the sheathing, sand and repaint. The actual arm beneath the sheathing is some sort of hard, solid plastic material, which is easily smoothed, primed and painted.

Here's a look at a typical damaged mounting arm. This set had also been crudely repainted at some point in the past.

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I begin by using the Dremel with a cut-off disc to carefully cut the sheathing into smaller pieces, followed by cracking the plastic bits away with a screwdriver and pliers.
(click on an image below to enlarge)

Next, I file the ridges and body-fill any imperfections followed by wet-sanding with 320-grit.
​(click on an image below to enlarge)

Next, the mirrors housings will need to prepped for repairs and paint. I attack heavy damage with a couple of grades of files, followed by a few grades of sandpaper, finishing with 320-grit. The entire assembly is then filled, primed and finished with color and clearcoat.
(click on an image below to enlarge)

Job done! Here's a comparison shot of the refinished mirrors with (left) and without (right) the mounting arm sheathing.
(click on an image below to enlarge)

As Project 13 nears the finish line, it's the little things that remain. One not so small project is detailing the bodywork. These finishes may be 32 years old, but it's pretty amazing what some effort and the right tools can accomplish.

Dulled and discolored paint, scuffs and even scratches can all be eliminated, or at least brought up to the best level we can hope for. I begin with paint touch-up, allowing the paint to cure for a few days before approaching the paint job as a whole.

Here's some of my favorite finishing tools, along with various fine grades of wet/dry sandpaper. I approach any problem areas a with 5000-grit wet sanding, only going with coarser paper if necessary — this will take out many scuffs and light scratches. In the case of this project, the fuel tank was slightly discolored, with the white showing yellowing, probably from a combination of gas spills and years of UV damage. A combination of 3000-grit followed by 5000-grit brought the tank to an acceptable level. Great care and a fine touch is required — it doesn't take much to sand through the clear and color coats. It's easy to take paint off, impossible to put it back.

This leaves a dull finish which I tackle with an application of Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #83 with the dual-action polisher using a three- or four-inch pad, followed by Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. The final touch to any project is a hand application of Meguiar's Polish.
(click on an image to enlarge)

The same techniques can be applied to the plastic turn signals, lenses and mirrors, assuming they're only lightly damaged. Here, the finished turn signal is mounted on a shorter 1 1/4-inch stalk to bring it closer to the fairing for a trimmer look.

Most of the fairing screws and their associated washers are NLA from Honda. I can't locate some of these aftermarket, so back to Ace for some generic replacements. These large screws didn't originally come with washers under the screw heads, but I like to cushion them anyway, so I've found some nice-fitting nylon washers in either white or black.

Here, the metal (backside) washer, an OEM part still available, is combined with an outer nylon washer.

It's the little things.....